Papa's MUSINGS
A compilation of Papa Jim's articles - a quest to cook for community (one lobster at a time).
December 28 2022
Papa Looks Back at 2022
Papa Looks Back at 2022
Another year is almost in the books. So, what happened? Well, there was the usual abundance of news highlights that come to mind:
As for me, most of my focus was more local and personal. Our charity is high-touch and unfortunately nobody gets to work from home (if we could, we might). My recollections of the past year are all about the people. Top-of-mind are the happy faces of those who come to the Sunday Food Pantry and the stories (that Lynn shares with me) about those who receive the ready-to-eat meals and soups that we prepare every week. We are so proud to have hit the 100K served in our community this year (since the beginning of the pandemic). I am very appreciative to have my wife and children, not only supportive, but helpful (through some health issues).
However, here are a few special local heroes that I was so fascinated by:
The A-Team. Nothing can happen for us without an amazing team of dedicated volunteers. We have a few “fireballs” who consistently make the rounds daily and pick up all the donations. We never know what is coming, but you can’t pick and choose what you are being given. We’ll figure out how to put it all to good use. So, no matter the weather…they deliver. This is our life’s blood, and they deserve my sincere gratitude.
- Sadly, Ukraine
- Working from home
- Crippling inflation
- Up and down gas prices
- Supply chain failures
- Air travel nightmares
- Abortion right's battle
- Elon Musk's folly
- Covid-19 (20, 21, 22...)
- Droughts and floods
- World Cup sizzle
- Queen Elizabeth
As for me, most of my focus was more local and personal. Our charity is high-touch and unfortunately nobody gets to work from home (if we could, we might). My recollections of the past year are all about the people. Top-of-mind are the happy faces of those who come to the Sunday Food Pantry and the stories (that Lynn shares with me) about those who receive the ready-to-eat meals and soups that we prepare every week. We are so proud to have hit the 100K served in our community this year (since the beginning of the pandemic). I am very appreciative to have my wife and children, not only supportive, but helpful (through some health issues).
However, here are a few special local heroes that I was so fascinated by:
The A-Team. Nothing can happen for us without an amazing team of dedicated volunteers. We have a few “fireballs” who consistently make the rounds daily and pick up all the donations. We never know what is coming, but you can’t pick and choose what you are being given. We’ll figure out how to put it all to good use. So, no matter the weather…they deliver. This is our life’s blood, and they deserve my sincere gratitude.
Pictured above: Aaron, Bob, Steve, Anthony
Bound Brook Presbyterian Church. BBPC has really got game. They consistently staff The Sunday Pantry with a wonderful army of hard-working volunteers. Led by a trio of dedicated, powerful ladies (below), every week is an amazement to watch as they skillfully coordinate with each other how to get everything done. It is a model of efficiency that other organizations should copy. Pictured below is D’Maris, Corey and Diane - getting ready to give away some of the brand-new coats on Pantry Day. Kudos, ladies.
My Mentor. BBPC has one member who I have been working with since the inception. He is a true Renaissance Man. Although very humble, every time I speak with Ted, I learn a little more about the world, vicariously through his adventures. Whenever I am feeling some aches and pains, I am motivated by watching Ted sling heavy cases of donated supplies into the hall without fail.
The Board. My Brothers-in Arms. PJCK’s Board of Directors is second to none. The three amigos - Joe H, Billy S and Joe M don’t like to take any credit for anything. They work with tireless determination but like to stay behind the scenes and their single-focused reward is seeing all the good that is done by feeding those with food insecurity. That’s it, no other motive. They are the brain-trust and the voices of reason. They keep me grounded and put up with my all my “stuff”.
Raffe O. My Hero. If you’re lucky, maybe once in a lifetime you’ll meet someone who is so giving of himself that you almost can’t believe it. Raffe is that person for me. I’ve known him for 15 years and we’ve worked together on several projects, always with the same indefatigable effort on his part. When you hear about someone you can call upon day or night, that is usually hyperbole - but not with Raffe. I’ve seen him answer those calls… for everyone. There is nothing that he won’t do for anyone… and he has for me. He is also a pivotal connection to the community that we are trying to serve. Local residents jump for joy when they see him coming. I wish everyone could have a great man like Raffe in their life. Gracias desde el fondo de mi corazón.
Denise and I wish everyone a prosperous 2023. Please stay tuned for updates on our PJCK Community Restaurant.
Thank you for a wonderful 2022.
Papa Jim
Thank you for a wonderful 2022.
Papa Jim
November 15 2022
Papa Jim’s Vision on Charity (A Must Read)
Papa Jim’s Vision on Charity (A Must Read)
9 million children in America will go to bed hungry tonight
53 million people in our country are currently struggling to put food on the table. These past couple of years have been particularly cruel. Starting with Covid-19 and now with the state of our economy, food prices have skyrocketed. Although I live in a fairly affluent county, the hunger crisis has not escaped us. Since the beginning of the Pandemic in March 2020, Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen has cooked and donated over 100,000 ready-to-eat meals for the disadvantaged in an effort to help eradicate food insecurity in our area.
The VISION of Papa Jim's Comfort Kitchen is a world where no one goes hungry, no nutritious food is wasted, and everyone has easy access to sufficient nourishment. We believe that nutritious food is a basic human right. We are committed to responding to the needs of our community so that no one is denied the opportunity or assistance to become self-sufficient through food distribution, support and education.
PJCK is a totally non-profit 501(c)(3) organization. Along with our partners, the Branchburg Rotary and the Bound Brook Presbyterian Church, we have forged a network of like-minded citizens willing to go to great lengths to feed the hungry and truly make a difference.
Recently I was asked, “What are you up to now?” Well, while I’m still busy cooking in our Soup Kitchen, my big plans for a Community Restaurant are now in the works. My Board of Directors has green-lighted this plan… my dream!
A little explanation here. While I am the Founder, Executive Director and, of course, Chef of PJCK - I can’t be on my own Board. So, the directors I have selected are a group of amazing philanthropists that keep me grounded and pointed in the right direction and that direction has led us to this new project.
Our Community Restaurant will be a non-profit venue where everyone is invited to join us for a wonderful dining experience - regardless of their means to pay. It will be an integral part of our community where everyone is welcome. In this safe, judgement-free zone, our volunteers will proudly serve every guest a wholesome and delicious meal with respect and dignity. I promise the food and the hospitality will always be top-notch.
We are now aggressively looking for an available restaurant space (and funding) in order serve our community with all of our resources. We did have a couple of worthy locations in our sights, but they fell through. So, no luck as of yet. You might think I’m getting ahead of myself and announcing this without a location in-hand. However, without wanting to sound too brash, considering my long list of accomplishments in the restaurant industry, I am uber-confident in the success of this venture.
I would like to give a shout-out to JBJ’s Soul Kitchen and their team - Jamie, Lou, Nicole and Chef Emily. They have been so gracious with their time and advice. The magic they create at the locations in their foundation and the love that they share... is priceless.
One of the things I learned from Soul Kitchen is that when people are struggling with food insecurity, they quite often have trouble attaining some of life’s basic needs. So, we plan to have community outreach counselors available to direct anyone who needs help to the many social services we have available right here in our community.
Your donations over the last few years have empowered us to get to this point. We take our responsibility as stewards of your generosity very seriously and will always conduct ourselves with high ethical standards.
I encourage you to think about how you can help by getting involved now. There is more detailed information on the website, but if you have additional questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me and we can sit down and talk.
Now we are raising the bar, please join us.
"Preparing and serving food for others is not about a singular donation, it is about making an ongoing difference in the community."
Papa Jim
jim@papajimscomfortkitchen.com
732-232-3984
53 million people in our country are currently struggling to put food on the table. These past couple of years have been particularly cruel. Starting with Covid-19 and now with the state of our economy, food prices have skyrocketed. Although I live in a fairly affluent county, the hunger crisis has not escaped us. Since the beginning of the Pandemic in March 2020, Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen has cooked and donated over 100,000 ready-to-eat meals for the disadvantaged in an effort to help eradicate food insecurity in our area.
The VISION of Papa Jim's Comfort Kitchen is a world where no one goes hungry, no nutritious food is wasted, and everyone has easy access to sufficient nourishment. We believe that nutritious food is a basic human right. We are committed to responding to the needs of our community so that no one is denied the opportunity or assistance to become self-sufficient through food distribution, support and education.
PJCK is a totally non-profit 501(c)(3) organization. Along with our partners, the Branchburg Rotary and the Bound Brook Presbyterian Church, we have forged a network of like-minded citizens willing to go to great lengths to feed the hungry and truly make a difference.
Recently I was asked, “What are you up to now?” Well, while I’m still busy cooking in our Soup Kitchen, my big plans for a Community Restaurant are now in the works. My Board of Directors has green-lighted this plan… my dream!
A little explanation here. While I am the Founder, Executive Director and, of course, Chef of PJCK - I can’t be on my own Board. So, the directors I have selected are a group of amazing philanthropists that keep me grounded and pointed in the right direction and that direction has led us to this new project.
Our Community Restaurant will be a non-profit venue where everyone is invited to join us for a wonderful dining experience - regardless of their means to pay. It will be an integral part of our community where everyone is welcome. In this safe, judgement-free zone, our volunteers will proudly serve every guest a wholesome and delicious meal with respect and dignity. I promise the food and the hospitality will always be top-notch.
We are now aggressively looking for an available restaurant space (and funding) in order serve our community with all of our resources. We did have a couple of worthy locations in our sights, but they fell through. So, no luck as of yet. You might think I’m getting ahead of myself and announcing this without a location in-hand. However, without wanting to sound too brash, considering my long list of accomplishments in the restaurant industry, I am uber-confident in the success of this venture.
I would like to give a shout-out to JBJ’s Soul Kitchen and their team - Jamie, Lou, Nicole and Chef Emily. They have been so gracious with their time and advice. The magic they create at the locations in their foundation and the love that they share... is priceless.
One of the things I learned from Soul Kitchen is that when people are struggling with food insecurity, they quite often have trouble attaining some of life’s basic needs. So, we plan to have community outreach counselors available to direct anyone who needs help to the many social services we have available right here in our community.
Your donations over the last few years have empowered us to get to this point. We take our responsibility as stewards of your generosity very seriously and will always conduct ourselves with high ethical standards.
I encourage you to think about how you can help by getting involved now. There is more detailed information on the website, but if you have additional questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me and we can sit down and talk.
Now we are raising the bar, please join us.
"Preparing and serving food for others is not about a singular donation, it is about making an ongoing difference in the community."
Papa Jim
jim@papajimscomfortkitchen.com
732-232-3984
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August 18 2022
A Chef's Thoughts on France
I finally have a chance (the soup kitchen has been super busy) to tell you about our amazing trip to France earlier this summer. The first week we spent in Paris at a very centrally located Airbnb, in the Les Marais district. Of course, we visited the Louvre, Eiffel Tower (escorted out, but a story for another day), Versailles, L’arc de Triomphe and The Moulin Rouge. We wandered through all the neighborhoods and managed our way around their incredible train system. Then we spent the next week in picturesque Nice, on the Mediterranean. We explored the French Riviera, up and down, from Cannes to Monaco. I could talk to you about all the wonderful people we met or how fantastic the wedding was. But I know that you want to hear about what I know best... THE FOOD! So here are some of the things I found most remarkable and delectable.
THE BREADS: First and foremost, the one thing that stands head and shoulders above everything French is their breads. The morning we landed at CDG airport we headed straight over to Notre Dame. Even though it is still closed, in their courtyard they were holding their renowned bread festival called the Fête du Pain. Here they judge the best baguettes and croissants in Paris. I had my first baguette of the trip in the form of their famous sandwich, the Jambon Buerre. This is simply a fresh crunchy loaf with ham and butter. Humble but amazing. It is as ubiquitous as their wine, everyone eats them everywhere. And so it started; game-on for the daily search for the best boulangeries in France. I would get up every morning in the dark so I could be the first in line to pick up an assortment of the piping hot, crispy goodies to take back to the house for breakfast. They were nice, peaceful morning strolls on the way to the bakery - followed by a mad dash back, while the packages were still warm.
A Chef's Thoughts on France
I finally have a chance (the soup kitchen has been super busy) to tell you about our amazing trip to France earlier this summer. The first week we spent in Paris at a very centrally located Airbnb, in the Les Marais district. Of course, we visited the Louvre, Eiffel Tower (escorted out, but a story for another day), Versailles, L’arc de Triomphe and The Moulin Rouge. We wandered through all the neighborhoods and managed our way around their incredible train system. Then we spent the next week in picturesque Nice, on the Mediterranean. We explored the French Riviera, up and down, from Cannes to Monaco. I could talk to you about all the wonderful people we met or how fantastic the wedding was. But I know that you want to hear about what I know best... THE FOOD! So here are some of the things I found most remarkable and delectable.
THE BREADS: First and foremost, the one thing that stands head and shoulders above everything French is their breads. The morning we landed at CDG airport we headed straight over to Notre Dame. Even though it is still closed, in their courtyard they were holding their renowned bread festival called the Fête du Pain. Here they judge the best baguettes and croissants in Paris. I had my first baguette of the trip in the form of their famous sandwich, the Jambon Buerre. This is simply a fresh crunchy loaf with ham and butter. Humble but amazing. It is as ubiquitous as their wine, everyone eats them everywhere. And so it started; game-on for the daily search for the best boulangeries in France. I would get up every morning in the dark so I could be the first in line to pick up an assortment of the piping hot, crispy goodies to take back to the house for breakfast. They were nice, peaceful morning strolls on the way to the bakery - followed by a mad dash back, while the packages were still warm.
THE PASTRIES: It might sound like this should be included above, but in France, there is a clear distinction between a boulangerie and a patisserie. The French have truly mastered the art of pastry. The flaky tart shells and pie crusts, the creamy custards and their passion for the picking out the perfect fruit is remarkable. It requires attention to detail, dedication, and a lot of patience to bake such pastries. These are made with different layers that reflect many rich flavours separately. Every afternoon we would take a break from walking (18 miles on one day!) and sit down for some coffee and a sweet treat. Raspberry or strawberry custard tarts, macarons (not coconut macaroons), pain chocolate, mille feuille, chouquettes, kouign-amann and eclairs. I loved every single one of them.
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THE FOOD MARKETS: Most chefs find fresh food markets as exciting as a kid is on Christmas morning. Particularly, while traveling in the summer, when everything is fresh and ripe. The colors and smells are distinct and no matter your level of epicurean expertise, you will find some things that you never saw before. I’ve found that Europeans and the French in particular like to cook fresh daily. Bulk buying is rare and the concept of leftovers is shunned by most. Now, I didn’t do a whole lot of cooking in France (mostly breakfasts) so I couldn’t buy most of the mind-blowing produce, cheeses, meats and seafoods I saw, but I sure sniffed and tasted my way through the Marché Bastille, the Cours Saleya, Marché de la Liberation and every other stand and stall I happened to come across. I did pick up some magnificent cheeses, pates and spreads to go with the pre-dinner wine selections. A little late day snack with a glass of champagne is in order since the restaurants serve dinner VERY late.
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ESCARGOT: Yes, snails! Our restaurant at the shore was called Periwinkles and our logo was a snail. So, I put escargot on the menu. At first it was kind of a lark, but guests ordered them, and loved them. So, even though this was sort of an old-time dish, it always stayed on the menu, even with yearly recipe tweaks. You don’t see them on many U.S. menus anymore, but you do in France. I had them several ways while I was there, but the best was the classic bourguignon, garlic and butter. The French really do know butter.
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ICE CREAM: Probably the best ice cream I ever had was in Ireland (happy cows), but Fenocchio’s in Old Town Nice takes a close second. The French have a real handle on sugar and cream. The ultimate comfort food? Cold treats on a hot summer day in a beach town in the south of France... C’est Magnifique!
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ALL THINGS SEAFOOD: With all that Mediterranean coastline and all the fishing boats it is no surprise that the French Riviera is the perfect place to find the most amazing seafood. If you see a marina loaded with luxury yachts, there is likely to be a fish market nearby. This coast attracts some of the best chefs in the world and along with a clientele of prosperous, epicurean locals and tourists it is easy to see why there are so many Michelin starred restaurants along this gorgeous seaside strip, and with good reason. Whatever isn’t local, be assured, they fly it in daily. I enjoyed the local snapper, tuna, prawns and mussels. Along with the best cured salmon I ever had….and the OYSTERS! Oysters have been part of the French diet since pre-Roman times and again the French take their oysters very seriously with their restaurants often offering a wide variety of choices based on size, shape and origin. Whether you’re an aficionado or are eager to try a new gastronomic delicacy there’s nothing quite like sitting in the sun overlooking the sea and eating French oysters.
I will discuss the breathtaking vineyards another day, so for now... Bon Appetit!
I will discuss the breathtaking vineyards another day, so for now... Bon Appetit!
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May 16 2022
Oh Julia, How I Loved You
This week we’re off to France. The main purpose of this trip is that I’ve been asked to officiate the marriage of two of my dearest friends. It’s quite an honor and I (now officially ordained) am taking this charge very serious. Papa Jim transforms into “Father Jim”, if only for a day. However, these festivities won’t take place till we arrive in Nice on the French Riviera. The first week will be spent in Paris, the culinary mecca for chefs…and I am salivating already. Americans have had mixed views about our relationship with France over the years, but politics aside, one thing cannot be denied; Gastronomy was perfected here. This is the land of Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and of course…Escoffier. Many of these greats including Erik Ripert and Jacques Pépineventually made their way to America and became legendary here, as well. Nonetheless, there was only one Julia.
Julia McWilliams (Child) grew up in an upper-class family of abundant wealth. She shunned the traditional expectations of her upbringing to create the most courageous life. After graduating from the prestigious Smith College in Massachusetts, she volunteered for service in the military leading into WWII. She was too tall (6’4”) to be enlisted into the WAC’s, so she took a position in DC for the OSS (a precursor to the CIA). Her keen intellect led to several higher positions including overseas assignments in Sri Lanka and China. It was during this time that she began her longtime relationship, then marriage to Paul Child.
Post-war, Paul was assigned to duty in Paris. This was when Julia (now almost 40) had her first introduction to French Cuisine. It was love at first bite. She swiftly enrolled at the world’s greatest culinary academy, Le Cordon Bleu. Despite being a woman in the male dominated culinary world she was indomitable and flourished. During her six year stay in France she studied privately with master chef Max Bugnard. Then she and two French friends, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle, founded L’École des Trois Gourmandes (“The School of the Three Gourmands”).
In 1961, back home in the US, Julia and friends wrote the best-selling Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 2 vol. (1961, 1970), which was praised for its clarity and comprehensiveness. These recipes were taught in the most thoughtful way. You could almost envision the process and technique. Her culinary crusade was stated simply in her introduction:
“This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den mother syndrome or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”
Fast forward to N.J. circa 1971. My parents were amused (if not slightly bewildered) by my obsession with Julia’s PBS show The French Chef. (I think my mom was more of a Galloping Gourmet fan). Her genuineness along with her often-falsetto delivery was fascinating to me. So that Christmas the above mentioned two books were waiting for me under the tree. It changed my life then and I still refer to them to this day. Although making this obsession a career was far from my mind, the thought of being able to create these dishes at home with the help of my new friend, was so exhilarating. No surprise, it was the next year (age 12) that I took over Thanksgiving Dinner. My mother always told that story a little more melodramatic than it actually was. The tale kind of grew in stature over the years, but ok. What I learned most from Julia’s fearlessness was from her legendary mistakes that she was never embarrassed about. She just plowed through. That’s how life and especially kitchen life is, just move on. No worries.
Julia Child’s life impacted millions world-wide. She clearly changed our culture. Initially, she brought upscale food out of swanky restaurants and into everyday kitchens in an America, at the time dominated with trashy TV dinners and instant mashed potatoes. Then her powerful presence opened the door for women’s opportunities in higher education and in the workplace. In an ironic twist some felt that she was pushing women down by keeping them in the kitchen. Quite the opposite, she was about female empowerment, if you’re going to prepare the family meals, then own it. Badass. Her cookbooks were masterpieces. A later book The Way To Cook was a favorite of mine after I was long-committed to this kitchen life. Later on, her philanthropy and platform helped raise awareness to many of the causes of the day, including her life-changing turnabout to be an AIDS activist, after the tragic death of her longtime manager.
I owe a lot to the chefs that have mentored me along the way, whether they knew me or not. I think about it every morning, pre-toque, as I ready myself to cook for the needy. Soon I will be noshing my way, in their honor, through the streets of Paris. I will most definitely be mindful of the work put in by those who came before. If you read last week’s article you know that even though most are long gone… I still say “THANK YOU.”
This week before I go, I will be making for you Julia’s three favorite dishes:
- Boeuf Bourguignon
- Coq au Vin
- Bouillabaisse
Bon Appetit!
"To be a good cook you have to have a love of the good, a love of hard work, and a love of creating." - Julia Child
Oh Julia, How I Loved You
This week we’re off to France. The main purpose of this trip is that I’ve been asked to officiate the marriage of two of my dearest friends. It’s quite an honor and I (now officially ordained) am taking this charge very serious. Papa Jim transforms into “Father Jim”, if only for a day. However, these festivities won’t take place till we arrive in Nice on the French Riviera. The first week will be spent in Paris, the culinary mecca for chefs…and I am salivating already. Americans have had mixed views about our relationship with France over the years, but politics aside, one thing cannot be denied; Gastronomy was perfected here. This is the land of Alain Ducasse, Daniel Boulud and of course…Escoffier. Many of these greats including Erik Ripert and Jacques Pépineventually made their way to America and became legendary here, as well. Nonetheless, there was only one Julia.
Julia McWilliams (Child) grew up in an upper-class family of abundant wealth. She shunned the traditional expectations of her upbringing to create the most courageous life. After graduating from the prestigious Smith College in Massachusetts, she volunteered for service in the military leading into WWII. She was too tall (6’4”) to be enlisted into the WAC’s, so she took a position in DC for the OSS (a precursor to the CIA). Her keen intellect led to several higher positions including overseas assignments in Sri Lanka and China. It was during this time that she began her longtime relationship, then marriage to Paul Child.
Post-war, Paul was assigned to duty in Paris. This was when Julia (now almost 40) had her first introduction to French Cuisine. It was love at first bite. She swiftly enrolled at the world’s greatest culinary academy, Le Cordon Bleu. Despite being a woman in the male dominated culinary world she was indomitable and flourished. During her six year stay in France she studied privately with master chef Max Bugnard. Then she and two French friends, Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle, founded L’École des Trois Gourmandes (“The School of the Three Gourmands”).
In 1961, back home in the US, Julia and friends wrote the best-selling Mastering the Art of French Cooking, 2 vol. (1961, 1970), which was praised for its clarity and comprehensiveness. These recipes were taught in the most thoughtful way. You could almost envision the process and technique. Her culinary crusade was stated simply in her introduction:
“This is a book for the servantless American cook who can be unconcerned on occasion with budgets, waistlines, time schedules, children’s meals, the parent-chauffeur-den mother syndrome or anything else which might interfere with the enjoyment of producing something wonderful to eat.”
Fast forward to N.J. circa 1971. My parents were amused (if not slightly bewildered) by my obsession with Julia’s PBS show The French Chef. (I think my mom was more of a Galloping Gourmet fan). Her genuineness along with her often-falsetto delivery was fascinating to me. So that Christmas the above mentioned two books were waiting for me under the tree. It changed my life then and I still refer to them to this day. Although making this obsession a career was far from my mind, the thought of being able to create these dishes at home with the help of my new friend, was so exhilarating. No surprise, it was the next year (age 12) that I took over Thanksgiving Dinner. My mother always told that story a little more melodramatic than it actually was. The tale kind of grew in stature over the years, but ok. What I learned most from Julia’s fearlessness was from her legendary mistakes that she was never embarrassed about. She just plowed through. That’s how life and especially kitchen life is, just move on. No worries.
Julia Child’s life impacted millions world-wide. She clearly changed our culture. Initially, she brought upscale food out of swanky restaurants and into everyday kitchens in an America, at the time dominated with trashy TV dinners and instant mashed potatoes. Then her powerful presence opened the door for women’s opportunities in higher education and in the workplace. In an ironic twist some felt that she was pushing women down by keeping them in the kitchen. Quite the opposite, she was about female empowerment, if you’re going to prepare the family meals, then own it. Badass. Her cookbooks were masterpieces. A later book The Way To Cook was a favorite of mine after I was long-committed to this kitchen life. Later on, her philanthropy and platform helped raise awareness to many of the causes of the day, including her life-changing turnabout to be an AIDS activist, after the tragic death of her longtime manager.
I owe a lot to the chefs that have mentored me along the way, whether they knew me or not. I think about it every morning, pre-toque, as I ready myself to cook for the needy. Soon I will be noshing my way, in their honor, through the streets of Paris. I will most definitely be mindful of the work put in by those who came before. If you read last week’s article you know that even though most are long gone… I still say “THANK YOU.”
This week before I go, I will be making for you Julia’s three favorite dishes:
- Boeuf Bourguignon
- Coq au Vin
- Bouillabaisse
Bon Appetit!
"To be a good cook you have to have a love of the good, a love of hard work, and a love of creating." - Julia Child
May 10 2022
A Chef's Gratitude
Chefs and cooks are notoriously bad at giving thanks and even worse at accepting it. People who work in kitchens develop a hard coating. When complimented it is more of a relief, based on a fear of failure rather than an enjoyment of success. I feel that I moved past that at some point and it made me a better leader and teacher; it made me “Papa." It is such a common trait of managers to point out someone’s shortcomings rather than invest in the moment it takes to “catch someone doing something right." That reward is limitless, and the needed coaching moment can come at a more appropriate time and will be better received. “Good Job, Thanks." Now isn’t that easy?
Cooking in a professional kitchen is far different from serving family and friends. When you push that finished plate over the pass, you know if it’s perfect. It's whisked away and you have to envision and trust that the praise at that table will be shared among the guests, just like the applause you get at the home table. But this belief is a hard ask, trust me. This is why I always encouraged my servers to bring back the good news, not just the bad. On TV, we Chefs come across with such bluster and bravado. However, I can assure you we are the most insecure tribe of all.
This past month was very trying for me personally on several fronts. I am overwhelmed with the outpouring of concern from all of you for me and my family. I just want to say THANK YOU! I appreciate every moment I have, in and out of the kitchen. I have been fortunate to have the most wonderful family and all the spoils of a successful career. I have been blessed (or cursed) with a passion to still cook every day. Sunday when I was released from the hospital, the first thing I did when I got home was make a big pot of (very healthy) soup. Although I was still a little wobbly, I think it was spot on.
I rarely get to see the faces of the hungry and the sick that our soup kitchen serves, but our compassionate volunteers give me the feedback. I don’t take that for granted. When you deny people the ability to thank you, it will stop. When I was with Maggiano's, I built many relationships with family’s that had kids with severe food allergies. The appreciation and affection of a young child because she trusts you to cook for her is parallel to none. The tears that came from several youngsters when I told them I was leaving DC to come back and cook in Jersey was heartbreaking. But you have to let that into your heart and return the gratitude.
It’s a strange journey, this human condition. Last week my mother passed away and this week our next (7th) grandchild will be born. This weekend I was lying in a hospital bed bemoaning my condition and miraculously next week I (still) get to go to France. There is a curious symmetry to this life. No matter where you stand on the spiritual scale you have to admit it is remarkable. It is a silent symphony, but if you’re patient and listen closely with peace and faith, you’ll hear it too. You don’t have to know Italian to get the moral of the opera.
My wife has an uncanny ability to deal with stress with calmness and fortitude. She’s able to meditate through a crisis. I seem to have to white-knuckle my mindfulness while I wrestle with my monkey mind. Nonetheless, we seem to get to the same harbor eventually, just me a little more tattered. I start each day with an appreciation meditation (prayer) before I even get out of bed. So, if you hear a little whisper in your ear every once in a while, that’s me, thanking you.
“A thankful heart is not only the greatest virtue, but the parent of all the other virtues.” - Cicero
A Chef's Gratitude
Chefs and cooks are notoriously bad at giving thanks and even worse at accepting it. People who work in kitchens develop a hard coating. When complimented it is more of a relief, based on a fear of failure rather than an enjoyment of success. I feel that I moved past that at some point and it made me a better leader and teacher; it made me “Papa." It is such a common trait of managers to point out someone’s shortcomings rather than invest in the moment it takes to “catch someone doing something right." That reward is limitless, and the needed coaching moment can come at a more appropriate time and will be better received. “Good Job, Thanks." Now isn’t that easy?
Cooking in a professional kitchen is far different from serving family and friends. When you push that finished plate over the pass, you know if it’s perfect. It's whisked away and you have to envision and trust that the praise at that table will be shared among the guests, just like the applause you get at the home table. But this belief is a hard ask, trust me. This is why I always encouraged my servers to bring back the good news, not just the bad. On TV, we Chefs come across with such bluster and bravado. However, I can assure you we are the most insecure tribe of all.
This past month was very trying for me personally on several fronts. I am overwhelmed with the outpouring of concern from all of you for me and my family. I just want to say THANK YOU! I appreciate every moment I have, in and out of the kitchen. I have been fortunate to have the most wonderful family and all the spoils of a successful career. I have been blessed (or cursed) with a passion to still cook every day. Sunday when I was released from the hospital, the first thing I did when I got home was make a big pot of (very healthy) soup. Although I was still a little wobbly, I think it was spot on.
I rarely get to see the faces of the hungry and the sick that our soup kitchen serves, but our compassionate volunteers give me the feedback. I don’t take that for granted. When you deny people the ability to thank you, it will stop. When I was with Maggiano's, I built many relationships with family’s that had kids with severe food allergies. The appreciation and affection of a young child because she trusts you to cook for her is parallel to none. The tears that came from several youngsters when I told them I was leaving DC to come back and cook in Jersey was heartbreaking. But you have to let that into your heart and return the gratitude.
It’s a strange journey, this human condition. Last week my mother passed away and this week our next (7th) grandchild will be born. This weekend I was lying in a hospital bed bemoaning my condition and miraculously next week I (still) get to go to France. There is a curious symmetry to this life. No matter where you stand on the spiritual scale you have to admit it is remarkable. It is a silent symphony, but if you’re patient and listen closely with peace and faith, you’ll hear it too. You don’t have to know Italian to get the moral of the opera.
My wife has an uncanny ability to deal with stress with calmness and fortitude. She’s able to meditate through a crisis. I seem to have to white-knuckle my mindfulness while I wrestle with my monkey mind. Nonetheless, we seem to get to the same harbor eventually, just me a little more tattered. I start each day with an appreciation meditation (prayer) before I even get out of bed. So, if you hear a little whisper in your ear every once in a while, that’s me, thanking you.
“A thankful heart is not only the greatest virtue, but the parent of all the other virtues.” - Cicero
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April 9 2022
This is a Very Serious Article
April Fool's! Weren’t last week’s musings somber enough? It’s time for me to lighten up and follow the fluffy bunny (he’s got all the chocolate). Let me talk about what I know best… (Easter) Dinner! (Yeah, just shut up and cook, Papa!) However, no saddle of rabbit or carrot soup. No pineapple ham or Hawaiian Spam. No crazy recipes glorifying the copious combinations of Jelly Bellys. Hot cross buns or resurrection rolls? (Well maybe). But, I got nuttin’ on mutton (Seinfeld). Are Peeps still a thing?
Ready for a Little Spring Fling?
Easter Sunday Pot Roast
When it comes to any given Sunday in America (especially Easter), a perfect Pot Roast is the most delectable comfort food. The tradition of a Sunday family feast gathered around the big table, prepared by my grandmother, was one of the most nurturing memories of my childhood. This breaking of bread and sharing a common communion seems to be a waning tradition in our culture. Clearly, there is nothing fast-foodish about this dinner. In Grandma’s honor, I cook my lip-smacking beef uber-low and super-slow with pearl onions, baby carrots and Yukon gold potatoes yielding a tender hunk of beef. The only thing I can’t share with you is that aroma that fills my kitchen about an hour into the (6 hour) cooking process. It pains me to have to share this dish.
Each serving is over 2lb. (6 servings) of savory beef, with all the veggies and crusty bread for the juice. Additionally, served with a classic red-wine demi-glace on the side. $36.00
Some ingredients include; Certified Angus Beef, red wine, veggies, (time and love)
Mama’s Seafood Crepes
This dish is truly a team game. Denise’s crepes (thin French pancakes) are legendary in this family. Papa steals a few of these savory wraps and fills them with Maine Lobster, Maryland Crab, Gulf Shrimp and a velvety mascarpone-sherry cream for an amazing French-American fusion dish. While I believe that pancakes are great for sweet toppings, when I admire an exquisite dinner crepe, I just know that it has heaven waiting inside. We will be headed to Paris next month for a pilgrimage to “Culinary Mecca” and I don’t plan for a throwdown, but….?
“Lobster Newburg is a classic New York dish made popular in Delmonico’s, a Manhattan restaurant established in 1827. This luxurious dish, with lobster, butter, cream, sherry, brandy and thickened with egg yolk, was the epitome of upscale fine dining, became incredibly popular with the after-theater crowd in New York. The addition of the vanilla in a savory crepe sounds odd, but vanilla works with seafood and shellfish like lobster.”
I adore lobster straight out of the shell and served with hot butter, but you might know by now that I like creating recipes incorporating this tasty seafood as an ingredient combined with other shellfish to develop a simple, yet complex dish. Lobsta love!
Trois (3) Grosses Crêpes ; $27.00 Served w/ Champagne-Truffle Lobster Sauce (on the side).
Some ingredients include: lobster, crab, shrimp, butter, sherry, brandy, cream, cheese
Omi’s Secret: While we all know that Denise (Omi) is of German heritage, but she has the perfect “je ne sais quoi” (Huguenot) in her background to make impeccable French crepes.
Spring Asparagus and Shrimp Risotto
If you have seen the movie “The Big Night” with Stanley Tucci, then you will know how much passion and pride (and pressure) there is in making the perfect risotto. What is risotto? In case you didn’t already know it’s an Italian rice dish, which loosely translated, means very good rice (it’s better than good). The Italian (and Irish) version is made with arborio rice which when made right is creamy (without using cream). The snap, crackle & pop (sorry, you won’t get to hear this) in cooking this rice is one of the most favorite sounds in my kitchen life. Risotto is quite the carrier of any flavors you feel like presenting. Here, the gulf shrimp, asparagus and lemon zest are a perfect “Benvenuta” to fresh spring flavors.
Serving for 3-4: $25
Some Ingredients include: tons of shrimp, rice, butter, garlic, asparagus & veggies (and no gluten)
Lamb and White Bean Chili
If you’re hosting a proper Easter dinner, I’ve got some great lamb ideas for a formal feast: crown roast, lollipop lamb chops, grilled rack, double thick loin chops or slow roasted leg (no mint jelly please). However, for the more casual get together, this is for you. Even if you think you don’t like lamb, you actually do. After all there is a sacred connection about Easter coming in like a lion but going out like a lamb. Oh sorry, that was about March (and The Farmer’s Almanac) …and apparently not biblical at all, just April showers.
Serving is 1 Qt / 4 cups. $17.
Some Ingredients include: braised lamb breast, beans, onions, peppers, spices and zazzle
All Good Friday orders (3 item min.) receive a complimentary Lobster & Spring Vegetable Chowder (you can’t buy this).
“Jimmie you use too many parentheses.” - Ms. McCarthy (my 6th grade English teacher)
This is a Very Serious Article
April Fool's! Weren’t last week’s musings somber enough? It’s time for me to lighten up and follow the fluffy bunny (he’s got all the chocolate). Let me talk about what I know best… (Easter) Dinner! (Yeah, just shut up and cook, Papa!) However, no saddle of rabbit or carrot soup. No pineapple ham or Hawaiian Spam. No crazy recipes glorifying the copious combinations of Jelly Bellys. Hot cross buns or resurrection rolls? (Well maybe). But, I got nuttin’ on mutton (Seinfeld). Are Peeps still a thing?
Ready for a Little Spring Fling?
Easter Sunday Pot Roast
When it comes to any given Sunday in America (especially Easter), a perfect Pot Roast is the most delectable comfort food. The tradition of a Sunday family feast gathered around the big table, prepared by my grandmother, was one of the most nurturing memories of my childhood. This breaking of bread and sharing a common communion seems to be a waning tradition in our culture. Clearly, there is nothing fast-foodish about this dinner. In Grandma’s honor, I cook my lip-smacking beef uber-low and super-slow with pearl onions, baby carrots and Yukon gold potatoes yielding a tender hunk of beef. The only thing I can’t share with you is that aroma that fills my kitchen about an hour into the (6 hour) cooking process. It pains me to have to share this dish.
Each serving is over 2lb. (6 servings) of savory beef, with all the veggies and crusty bread for the juice. Additionally, served with a classic red-wine demi-glace on the side. $36.00
Some ingredients include; Certified Angus Beef, red wine, veggies, (time and love)
Mama’s Seafood Crepes
This dish is truly a team game. Denise’s crepes (thin French pancakes) are legendary in this family. Papa steals a few of these savory wraps and fills them with Maine Lobster, Maryland Crab, Gulf Shrimp and a velvety mascarpone-sherry cream for an amazing French-American fusion dish. While I believe that pancakes are great for sweet toppings, when I admire an exquisite dinner crepe, I just know that it has heaven waiting inside. We will be headed to Paris next month for a pilgrimage to “Culinary Mecca” and I don’t plan for a throwdown, but….?
“Lobster Newburg is a classic New York dish made popular in Delmonico’s, a Manhattan restaurant established in 1827. This luxurious dish, with lobster, butter, cream, sherry, brandy and thickened with egg yolk, was the epitome of upscale fine dining, became incredibly popular with the after-theater crowd in New York. The addition of the vanilla in a savory crepe sounds odd, but vanilla works with seafood and shellfish like lobster.”
I adore lobster straight out of the shell and served with hot butter, but you might know by now that I like creating recipes incorporating this tasty seafood as an ingredient combined with other shellfish to develop a simple, yet complex dish. Lobsta love!
Trois (3) Grosses Crêpes ; $27.00 Served w/ Champagne-Truffle Lobster Sauce (on the side).
Some ingredients include: lobster, crab, shrimp, butter, sherry, brandy, cream, cheese
Omi’s Secret: While we all know that Denise (Omi) is of German heritage, but she has the perfect “je ne sais quoi” (Huguenot) in her background to make impeccable French crepes.
- A perfectly whipped batter
- A thin pour
- Proper heat and time balance
- Probably throw the 1st one away
Spring Asparagus and Shrimp Risotto
If you have seen the movie “The Big Night” with Stanley Tucci, then you will know how much passion and pride (and pressure) there is in making the perfect risotto. What is risotto? In case you didn’t already know it’s an Italian rice dish, which loosely translated, means very good rice (it’s better than good). The Italian (and Irish) version is made with arborio rice which when made right is creamy (without using cream). The snap, crackle & pop (sorry, you won’t get to hear this) in cooking this rice is one of the most favorite sounds in my kitchen life. Risotto is quite the carrier of any flavors you feel like presenting. Here, the gulf shrimp, asparagus and lemon zest are a perfect “Benvenuta” to fresh spring flavors.
Serving for 3-4: $25
Some Ingredients include: tons of shrimp, rice, butter, garlic, asparagus & veggies (and no gluten)
Lamb and White Bean Chili
If you’re hosting a proper Easter dinner, I’ve got some great lamb ideas for a formal feast: crown roast, lollipop lamb chops, grilled rack, double thick loin chops or slow roasted leg (no mint jelly please). However, for the more casual get together, this is for you. Even if you think you don’t like lamb, you actually do. After all there is a sacred connection about Easter coming in like a lion but going out like a lamb. Oh sorry, that was about March (and The Farmer’s Almanac) …and apparently not biblical at all, just April showers.
Serving is 1 Qt / 4 cups. $17.
Some Ingredients include: braised lamb breast, beans, onions, peppers, spices and zazzle
All Good Friday orders (3 item min.) receive a complimentary Lobster & Spring Vegetable Chowder (you can’t buy this).
“Jimmie you use too many parentheses.” - Ms. McCarthy (my 6th grade English teacher)
April 1 2022
Spring Hope is Eternal
In a few days, I am headed back to Florida to be with my Mom who is suffering from severe late-stage Alzheimer’s; a disease so cruel, that it will snatch away a once curious mind, a vibrant life and has the audacity to force us suffer the loss of a loved one… twice. There is no cure yet, only suffering.
I have had quite the education about Alzheimer’s over the last few years. I have gone through all the phases: denial, anger, guilt, sadness, then acceptance. Where I’ve landed now, is my attempt to still make a connection. How can I break through the wall of anxiety and agitation and give some comfort without stirring up fear and anger?
So, I make a game plan of patience and presence that I use for either a virtual visit or in-person. I have a list of the things that my mother once loved, whether she remembers them or not. I will keep the banter going for as long as I think it is somewhat working. Tenor and delivery are the keys to success. I keep it light and positive. I alter my voice to be a softer tone yet a higher pitch than normal and I throw in a lot of intentional chuckles throughout. As much as it might pull at my heartstrings to not get a response about something special that we once held so dear together, I move along undeterred.
Spring is the season for life, regeneration and hope. I must believe that there is some desire for these things somewhere deep inside of her and I will keep attempting breakthroughs. I’m also keenly aware these efforts are necessary therapy for me.
Below I’ve listed just a few of the cherished memories that I’m bringing down south with me to share.
NOTE: Unlike most people, I find comfort from a stressful situation, in the kitchen. So, before I go, I will be cooking and delivering (on Tuesday 4/5) three of Papa Jim’s best-selling dishes of the past year. Here is the deal: every dollar spent on these delicious dishes, 200% will be donated to the Alzheimer's Association. How can it be 200%? Well, because I am donating all the cost of food and also personally matching your total purchase. Help me, help them, find a cure and beat this monster.
Here’s my Mama’s Boy Talk List:
Spring/Easter: My Mom loved Spring and Easter. She was always so proud when her tulips and daffodils came up and the forsythia bloomed. Although she turned over most of the holiday meals to me, (I didn’t get my passion for cooking from her) Easter lamb was still her favorite (not my kids) to prepare and serve.
Easter Eggs: Actually, we loved the bounty of deviled eggs to follow better than the hunt. However, my dad was so good at hiding the eggs that some weren’t discovered until we (much) later detected the smell, ugh.
Storybook Land: No, not the one in South Jersey (I can barely remember that). My daughter has thoughtfully published a remarkable photo book of all our family members and special memories. Not just a photo album, this well-crafted book reads like a narrative story. In a reversal of roles, I will read to her a bedtime tale about a devoted family from not-so-long-ago.
Current (Family) Events: Although my Mom doesn’t remember that she has all these brilliant grandkids and great-grandkids, I will still keep her apprised of all their accomplishments anyhow. We will agree about how wonderful they all are and even if it’s a different experience for each of us, we’ll have a shared moment of pride.
Periwinkles: This was the name of my Shore Restaurant and she loved it! My parents always made a pilgrimage back to NJ in the Spring to spend some time showing off their family to their friends. As my Mom started to slip into dementia, one of the things she still loved to talk about was Periwinkles. I should have seen the signs then, when her stories were about events that didn’t really happened that way. I mistakenly thought this was just how she put her own spin on things. I can still see the love in her blue eyes with that first spoonful of my Lobster & Crab Bisque ... mmm!!
Humor: One of the things I’ve learned along the way is - don’t be afraid to laugh! (As long as you’re not mocking or demeaning). The confusion caused by Alzheimer’s can lead to some kooky conversations that you would have never had with your “real Mom." Also, I get to reuse all my old material (that my wife hates). Quite frankly, I had never heard my Mom toss out any F-Bombs before… I gotta giggle, just a little.
Spring Food: One thing my Mom hasn’t lost along the way is her appetite and her passion for eating and talking about eating. Back in my early chef days we weren’t as lucky as we are now to have most ingredients year-round. So, bring on the local NJ early spring asparagus, fresh herbs and baby greens. I can barely wait for the strawberries, blueberries, tomatoes and the rest of the luscious Jersey Fresh Produce.
Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen: My Mom and Dad were unequivocally my biggest fans as a chef and particularly in my passion for charity. It started when I was quite young and took over the Thanksgiving Dinner one year. The big joke around the holidays was who was I bringing in “off-the-street” for dinner? (Or maybe longer). They were supportive of all the moves I made along this captivating culinary career. I think they would still be proud. In fact, I know they are.
“Hope Springs Eternal”
Meaning: it is human nature always to find fresh cause for optimism. - Alexander Pope
The following week, when I return from Gainesville, I will be posting a special Easter menu for delivery to you and your family on Good Friday. Stay tuned!
Spring Hope is Eternal
In a few days, I am headed back to Florida to be with my Mom who is suffering from severe late-stage Alzheimer’s; a disease so cruel, that it will snatch away a once curious mind, a vibrant life and has the audacity to force us suffer the loss of a loved one… twice. There is no cure yet, only suffering.
I have had quite the education about Alzheimer’s over the last few years. I have gone through all the phases: denial, anger, guilt, sadness, then acceptance. Where I’ve landed now, is my attempt to still make a connection. How can I break through the wall of anxiety and agitation and give some comfort without stirring up fear and anger?
So, I make a game plan of patience and presence that I use for either a virtual visit or in-person. I have a list of the things that my mother once loved, whether she remembers them or not. I will keep the banter going for as long as I think it is somewhat working. Tenor and delivery are the keys to success. I keep it light and positive. I alter my voice to be a softer tone yet a higher pitch than normal and I throw in a lot of intentional chuckles throughout. As much as it might pull at my heartstrings to not get a response about something special that we once held so dear together, I move along undeterred.
Spring is the season for life, regeneration and hope. I must believe that there is some desire for these things somewhere deep inside of her and I will keep attempting breakthroughs. I’m also keenly aware these efforts are necessary therapy for me.
Below I’ve listed just a few of the cherished memories that I’m bringing down south with me to share.
NOTE: Unlike most people, I find comfort from a stressful situation, in the kitchen. So, before I go, I will be cooking and delivering (on Tuesday 4/5) three of Papa Jim’s best-selling dishes of the past year. Here is the deal: every dollar spent on these delicious dishes, 200% will be donated to the Alzheimer's Association. How can it be 200%? Well, because I am donating all the cost of food and also personally matching your total purchase. Help me, help them, find a cure and beat this monster.
Here’s my Mama’s Boy Talk List:
Spring/Easter: My Mom loved Spring and Easter. She was always so proud when her tulips and daffodils came up and the forsythia bloomed. Although she turned over most of the holiday meals to me, (I didn’t get my passion for cooking from her) Easter lamb was still her favorite (not my kids) to prepare and serve.
Easter Eggs: Actually, we loved the bounty of deviled eggs to follow better than the hunt. However, my dad was so good at hiding the eggs that some weren’t discovered until we (much) later detected the smell, ugh.
Storybook Land: No, not the one in South Jersey (I can barely remember that). My daughter has thoughtfully published a remarkable photo book of all our family members and special memories. Not just a photo album, this well-crafted book reads like a narrative story. In a reversal of roles, I will read to her a bedtime tale about a devoted family from not-so-long-ago.
Current (Family) Events: Although my Mom doesn’t remember that she has all these brilliant grandkids and great-grandkids, I will still keep her apprised of all their accomplishments anyhow. We will agree about how wonderful they all are and even if it’s a different experience for each of us, we’ll have a shared moment of pride.
Periwinkles: This was the name of my Shore Restaurant and she loved it! My parents always made a pilgrimage back to NJ in the Spring to spend some time showing off their family to their friends. As my Mom started to slip into dementia, one of the things she still loved to talk about was Periwinkles. I should have seen the signs then, when her stories were about events that didn’t really happened that way. I mistakenly thought this was just how she put her own spin on things. I can still see the love in her blue eyes with that first spoonful of my Lobster & Crab Bisque ... mmm!!
Humor: One of the things I’ve learned along the way is - don’t be afraid to laugh! (As long as you’re not mocking or demeaning). The confusion caused by Alzheimer’s can lead to some kooky conversations that you would have never had with your “real Mom." Also, I get to reuse all my old material (that my wife hates). Quite frankly, I had never heard my Mom toss out any F-Bombs before… I gotta giggle, just a little.
Spring Food: One thing my Mom hasn’t lost along the way is her appetite and her passion for eating and talking about eating. Back in my early chef days we weren’t as lucky as we are now to have most ingredients year-round. So, bring on the local NJ early spring asparagus, fresh herbs and baby greens. I can barely wait for the strawberries, blueberries, tomatoes and the rest of the luscious Jersey Fresh Produce.
Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen: My Mom and Dad were unequivocally my biggest fans as a chef and particularly in my passion for charity. It started when I was quite young and took over the Thanksgiving Dinner one year. The big joke around the holidays was who was I bringing in “off-the-street” for dinner? (Or maybe longer). They were supportive of all the moves I made along this captivating culinary career. I think they would still be proud. In fact, I know they are.
“Hope Springs Eternal”
Meaning: it is human nature always to find fresh cause for optimism. - Alexander Pope
The following week, when I return from Gainesville, I will be posting a special Easter menu for delivery to you and your family on Good Friday. Stay tuned!
March 15 2022
A Chef's Tour of Ireland
I know Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen has been off-line the last two weeks, but there is a pretty good reason. I am a member of World Central Kitchen (Jose Andres) and although I have only been a donor to this point, I am currently registered to go to Przemyśl, Poland to cook for the Ukrainian refugees coming across the border. I am lucky enough to have a good friend who grew up the next town over and he offered lodging and transportation, of which there isn’t much available. As I was getting prepared to go, pausing my own soup kitchen and ready to purchase my air travel, I was informed that they were currently fully staffed. Seems that our colleagues in Poland are really on it. So, these past two weeks have quite a bit of an emotional roller coaster (ready-set-false start). Nonetheless, as I wait for my number to be called, I remain here and plan to make myself useful for St. Patrick’s Day. Which means after two years of covid-cancelled celebrations, I have the honor of stepping back into my own heritage and volunteering to cook an amazing Irish feast for at least 300 in our community. This weekend I (PJCK) will also prepare some special Irish dishes (see below) for you all, once you’ve had your fill of corned beef.
Irish food is often mistakenly thought to consist of nothing more than boiled potatoes and mutton. This couldn’t be further from the truth. The food of Ireland is steeped in history and culture. Countless influences have made a mark their cuisine since the arrival of the Celts about 600 BC, through the English colonization in the middle ages. Beef and pork were an important part in Irish food early on until the arrival of the potato in Ireland in the 16th century. If ever there was an ingredient that could be held as an emblem for Ireland, it must surely be the potato. The damp, cool Irish climate and soil conditions proved perfect for potatoes and they rapidly moved from a simple garden vegetable to a staple food crop for both man and animals. It was cheap and easy to grow in this harsh climate and even a small plot could produce a hearty crop. The high mineral and vitamin content of the potato also made it a perfect, cheap food for the poor of Ireland and was a welcome change from the cereal crops, they had been dependent on.
The potato became an intrinsic part of Ireland’s food culture. However, the dependence on them as a staple food, also proved a curse for the Irish with the potato famine catastrophes. The first in 1739 was a result of cold weather but the watershed-moment famine of 1845-49 in Ireland was caused by potato blight, a fast-spreading disease that wiped out the potato crops and resulted in the death of over a million Irish. Of those who survived over two million emigrated (many to the US and the UK) and several million in Ireland were left destitute. Pre-disaster Ireland was the most densely populated country in Europe, but now decimated. Those who remained and endured, claimed the abandoned land and later flourished.
Potatoes remain a popular foodstuff in Ireland are served almost daily as part of a meal. Like the rest of Europe, Ireland has a thriving modern food culture, and the potato is not only a mainstay, but also included in some of their contemporary dishes; younger chefs giving homage to their heritage.
I had the good fortune to visit the Emerald Isle just before we were inflicted with Covid-19 and international travel was shut down. Denise and I mostly circumnavigated the coast (The Wild Atlantic Way) so we were blessed to be able to sample all the amazing seafood that graces the menus of coastal Ireland.
Here are just a few of the marvelous dishes, in the order we sampled along the way:
Fish & Chips @ Leo Burdock’s, Dublin. Just got into town. Needed something in the belly before the Guiness Storehouse.
Smoked Salmon @ Foodworks in Kilkenney. A little Hibernian brunch after a tour of the 1st of many, many castles.
Irish Cheese @The English Market, Cork : This is where I learned of the superiority of Irish dairy. At the Midleton Distillery (Jameson) Tour we were schooled on the story that the leftover mash was fed to the “happy” cows. I’ll buy that. Today, Irish cheese is renowned throughout the world for the quality and distinctive flavor of its cheeses.
Seafood Chowder @Fishy-Fishy, Kinsale. The "Tidy Town" competitions success is in full bloom in this seashore town.
Thornhill Duck Breast @The Park Hotel, Kenmare. Classic old hotel. We actually had afternoon tea there.
Wild Atlantic Fish Pie @Fertha, Cahaversiveen (Ring of Kerry). Perfect place for a stop. I was a little knackered from a dizzying drive.
Murphy’s Ice Cream, Killarney. These “Happy” cows also make the best ice cream. (and also Kerrygold Butter!) It was the 4th of July and we ended up in a parade.(see pics) There may have been some Guiness involved.
Lamb Shank @ The South Pole Inn, Annascaul. Lunch @ Tom Crean’s Pub. Then hit Inch Beach for 360’s in the Mercedes rental.
Braised Turbot @Out of the Blue, Dingle. Eclectic little restaurant in our favorite town in Ireland. Also, our favorite pub; Foxy John’s. ½ hardware store ½ pub.
Fish Cakes @Durty Nell’s, Limerick. There once was a bloke named Blake, who loved Durty Nell’s fish cakes….
Irish Beef Stew @McDermotts Pub, Doolin (Cliffs of Moher). Doolin is a small walking town, but a bit of a hike to the cliffs. So, we got a tip from a fella @ Foxy John’s and paid an old codger to park right at the edge. Thelma & Louise style.
Raw Oysters @The Galway Food Festival. Best I ever had.
Mussels @Kirwins, Galway. Again, the best I ever had.
Pork Belly, @Cronin’s Sheebeen, Westport. Last town before heading back east. Hit up all the pubs…Matt Molloy’s, J.J. O’Malley’s, MacBrides…
All the Street Food of Temple Bar, Dublin. Boxty, Meat Pies, Coddle, Pasties, Samosas….
Brazen Head Pub, Dublin, Serving suds since the 12th century. Didn’t eat here, just a heap of Craic.
Traditional Irish Breakfast, Every Morning, Every Town, An-bhlasta (delicious!)
This week’s menu:
Irish Seafood Chowder
Guinness Short Rib Stew
Lobster Shepherd's Pie
“Laughter is brightest where the food is best”." - Irish Proverb
Lá Fhéile Pádraig sona duit!
Have a fantastic St. Patrick’s Day!
A Chef's Tour of Ireland
I know Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen has been off-line the last two weeks, but there is a pretty good reason. I am a member of World Central Kitchen (Jose Andres) and although I have only been a donor to this point, I am currently registered to go to Przemyśl, Poland to cook for the Ukrainian refugees coming across the border. I am lucky enough to have a good friend who grew up the next town over and he offered lodging and transportation, of which there isn’t much available. As I was getting prepared to go, pausing my own soup kitchen and ready to purchase my air travel, I was informed that they were currently fully staffed. Seems that our colleagues in Poland are really on it. So, these past two weeks have quite a bit of an emotional roller coaster (ready-set-false start). Nonetheless, as I wait for my number to be called, I remain here and plan to make myself useful for St. Patrick’s Day. Which means after two years of covid-cancelled celebrations, I have the honor of stepping back into my own heritage and volunteering to cook an amazing Irish feast for at least 300 in our community. This weekend I (PJCK) will also prepare some special Irish dishes (see below) for you all, once you’ve had your fill of corned beef.
Irish food is often mistakenly thought to consist of nothing more than boiled potatoes and mutton. This couldn’t be further from the truth. The food of Ireland is steeped in history and culture. Countless influences have made a mark their cuisine since the arrival of the Celts about 600 BC, through the English colonization in the middle ages. Beef and pork were an important part in Irish food early on until the arrival of the potato in Ireland in the 16th century. If ever there was an ingredient that could be held as an emblem for Ireland, it must surely be the potato. The damp, cool Irish climate and soil conditions proved perfect for potatoes and they rapidly moved from a simple garden vegetable to a staple food crop for both man and animals. It was cheap and easy to grow in this harsh climate and even a small plot could produce a hearty crop. The high mineral and vitamin content of the potato also made it a perfect, cheap food for the poor of Ireland and was a welcome change from the cereal crops, they had been dependent on.
The potato became an intrinsic part of Ireland’s food culture. However, the dependence on them as a staple food, also proved a curse for the Irish with the potato famine catastrophes. The first in 1739 was a result of cold weather but the watershed-moment famine of 1845-49 in Ireland was caused by potato blight, a fast-spreading disease that wiped out the potato crops and resulted in the death of over a million Irish. Of those who survived over two million emigrated (many to the US and the UK) and several million in Ireland were left destitute. Pre-disaster Ireland was the most densely populated country in Europe, but now decimated. Those who remained and endured, claimed the abandoned land and later flourished.
Potatoes remain a popular foodstuff in Ireland are served almost daily as part of a meal. Like the rest of Europe, Ireland has a thriving modern food culture, and the potato is not only a mainstay, but also included in some of their contemporary dishes; younger chefs giving homage to their heritage.
I had the good fortune to visit the Emerald Isle just before we were inflicted with Covid-19 and international travel was shut down. Denise and I mostly circumnavigated the coast (The Wild Atlantic Way) so we were blessed to be able to sample all the amazing seafood that graces the menus of coastal Ireland.
Here are just a few of the marvelous dishes, in the order we sampled along the way:
Fish & Chips @ Leo Burdock’s, Dublin. Just got into town. Needed something in the belly before the Guiness Storehouse.
Smoked Salmon @ Foodworks in Kilkenney. A little Hibernian brunch after a tour of the 1st of many, many castles.
Irish Cheese @The English Market, Cork : This is where I learned of the superiority of Irish dairy. At the Midleton Distillery (Jameson) Tour we were schooled on the story that the leftover mash was fed to the “happy” cows. I’ll buy that. Today, Irish cheese is renowned throughout the world for the quality and distinctive flavor of its cheeses.
Seafood Chowder @Fishy-Fishy, Kinsale. The "Tidy Town" competitions success is in full bloom in this seashore town.
Thornhill Duck Breast @The Park Hotel, Kenmare. Classic old hotel. We actually had afternoon tea there.
Wild Atlantic Fish Pie @Fertha, Cahaversiveen (Ring of Kerry). Perfect place for a stop. I was a little knackered from a dizzying drive.
Murphy’s Ice Cream, Killarney. These “Happy” cows also make the best ice cream. (and also Kerrygold Butter!) It was the 4th of July and we ended up in a parade.(see pics) There may have been some Guiness involved.
Lamb Shank @ The South Pole Inn, Annascaul. Lunch @ Tom Crean’s Pub. Then hit Inch Beach for 360’s in the Mercedes rental.
Braised Turbot @Out of the Blue, Dingle. Eclectic little restaurant in our favorite town in Ireland. Also, our favorite pub; Foxy John’s. ½ hardware store ½ pub.
Fish Cakes @Durty Nell’s, Limerick. There once was a bloke named Blake, who loved Durty Nell’s fish cakes….
Irish Beef Stew @McDermotts Pub, Doolin (Cliffs of Moher). Doolin is a small walking town, but a bit of a hike to the cliffs. So, we got a tip from a fella @ Foxy John’s and paid an old codger to park right at the edge. Thelma & Louise style.
Raw Oysters @The Galway Food Festival. Best I ever had.
Mussels @Kirwins, Galway. Again, the best I ever had.
Pork Belly, @Cronin’s Sheebeen, Westport. Last town before heading back east. Hit up all the pubs…Matt Molloy’s, J.J. O’Malley’s, MacBrides…
All the Street Food of Temple Bar, Dublin. Boxty, Meat Pies, Coddle, Pasties, Samosas….
Brazen Head Pub, Dublin, Serving suds since the 12th century. Didn’t eat here, just a heap of Craic.
Traditional Irish Breakfast, Every Morning, Every Town, An-bhlasta (delicious!)
This week’s menu:
Irish Seafood Chowder
Guinness Short Rib Stew
Lobster Shepherd's Pie
“Laughter is brightest where the food is best”." - Irish Proverb
Lá Fhéile Pádraig sona duit!
Have a fantastic St. Patrick’s Day!
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February 21 2022
On Presidents + Food
Today is Presidents Day and I feel the need to culinarily honor (and somewhat shame) some of our most famous POTUS’. There is a long history of some peculiar White House dishes including: squirrel stew (Harrison & Garfield), Prune Whip (Eisenhower) and Leather Britches (A. Jackson). Also, we have had some eating oddities like Reagan’s penchant for jellybeans and George H.W. Bush's weird love of pork rinds, but distain for broccoli (which pales in comparison to him vomiting at a State Dinner on the Japanese PM’s lap).
It is no surprise that most of our early Presidents (except Jefferson & Madison) had modest tastes, because most of our country gentlemen leaders preferred simple fare. Woefully, because most of their meals were prepared by the remarkable slave-chefs that have left their mark on American food culture. But this is not a post about past politics, just a Chef’s observation about POTUS culinary history. To save time, I’ve listed just a few noteworthy Big Men that only governed during my lifetime:
John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jacqueline (Bouvier) Kennedy arrived at the White House from a wealthy and privileged upbringing. They brought with them unprecedented class and style to the dining scene there. Being the first real gourmand in office since Thomas Jefferson, JFK certainly shared that Founding Father’s taste for fine French cuisine. This was a time in our country that we all fell in love with the French cooking of Julia Child (my girl) and James Beard. Jackie brought in renowned French Chef René Verdon to run the White House kitchens and handle her penchant for glamorous entertaining. Decades before first lady Michelle Obama’s garden, Verdon grew vegetables on the White House roof and herbs in the East Garden. In the Kennedys almost three years there they hosted 14 notable State Dinners, as well as attending 8 international galas in Europe. However, even with his sophisticated palate, JFK was a Massachusetts guy through and through, thus his favorite food was New England Clam Chowder. In a global (and culinary} misstep, he famously said in a fine speech in West Berlin (during the cold war) "Ich bin ein Berliner", which translates to “I am a jelly donut." In his defense, I can’t find any record of him liking donuts at all.
Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle’s state dinners encapsulate the chaos and information overload of the 2010s. Both were foodies and frequent patrons of both the Chicago and Washington restaurant scenes. In fact, they dined at Maggiano’s in DC several times when I was the GM/EC there. Their daughters ate there even more often, which I appreciated since I only had to speak with two Secret Service Agents per visit, as opposed to the whole big spectacle for the POTUS. Unlike previous administrations, their style experimented so boldly with the state dinner formula so that there was almost nothing in common with one another, skipping merrily between styles. Not even the chefs stayed constant—an unprecedented move in the White House. The celebrity chefs Marcus Samuelsson, Rick Bayless, Anita Lo, and Mario Batali (ugh) each had a turn in the White House kitchen. Bayless, a Chicago chef associated with various Mexican restaurants, was recruited to prepare the state dinner honoring Mexican President Felipe Calderón on May 19, 2010. The Obamas were huge fans of his Mexican Restaurants in The Windy City. This week I’m going to prepare for you one of Rick’s most famous dishes, Chipotle Shrimp. One of the few threads tying Obama’s state dinners (only 13 in 8 years) together is their use of the White House kitchen garden. Alice Waters had been arguing for it since Clinton’s inauguration, but Michelle Obama jumped on it and planted an 1,100-square-foot organic vegetable garden on the South Lawn, in a tribute to the localism that had come to become such a dominant part of the fare. Time magazine nicknamed President Obama “America’s Eater-in-Chief”, yet curiously he claims broccoli (not to be served to GHWB), chili and nachos as his favorites (huh?). In an ironic twist, First Lady Michelle “Queen Healthy” ordered French fries at a state luncheon with Queen Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace. What?
Richard M. Nixon was not the culinary king or gourmand that he thought he was. His 40 state dinners were like his own character: convoluted, disparaged, and nearly destroyed by flaws. I am repulsed by his favorite breakfast of cottage cheese and ketchup and his absurd ban of soup (soup?) from the White House. During these dinners, this cheap skate secretly kept the best wines for himself, while the servants poured the lesser selections for the guests. However, he was also the first president to host (and serve lobster to) a leader of the Soviet Union—Leonid Brezhnev on June 18, 1973--Priyatnogo appetita! One unexpected winner in Nixon’s gastrodiplomacy, nonetheless was the American Chinese restaurant. The dinners hosted in his honor during his historic 1972 visit to China revolutionized restaurant menus in the United States. A country that knew of Chinese food mainly as chow mein and egg rolls was exposed to a variety of new dishes during the media blitz—General Tso’s Chicken and Peking duck, for instance. Food-related contradictions were always in evidence when Richard Nixon came to the White House. In 1968 he let it be known that one of his favorite dishes was the humble, all-American meatloaf. According to the "The White House Family Cookbook," the Nixon meatloaf caught the public's imagination so strongly that "Mrs. Nixon's meat loaf recipe was printed on White House stationery to be sent in response to the thousands of requests" (it was crap). This week I’m going to make you my favorite Wagyu "Kobe Beef" Meatloaf, served with lobster mashed (a sure “Poor Man’s Surf & Turf”) which I assure you, I have not stolen from First Lady Pat. “I am not a crook.”
Bill (Bubba Burger) Clinton & (Mc)Donald Trump. No presidential food article would be complete without a comment about these two modern era butterballs. You know when your eating habits are the most prolific skits on Saturday Night Live, you have probably choked down a few too many cheeseburgers. During their terms in office, they were the most notorious junk-food-junkies who regularly indulged in their favorite gut-busting meals. Trump actually served Big Macs to the Clemson Tiger Championship Team upon their visit to the White House. As I contemplate the disgusting excess of their fast-food indulgences, I can't help but ponder the truth behind the proverbial saying, "you are what you eat."
“I do not like broccoli. And I haven't liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I'm President of the United States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli.” - George H.W. Bush, U.S. President
On Presidents + Food
Today is Presidents Day and I feel the need to culinarily honor (and somewhat shame) some of our most famous POTUS’. There is a long history of some peculiar White House dishes including: squirrel stew (Harrison & Garfield), Prune Whip (Eisenhower) and Leather Britches (A. Jackson). Also, we have had some eating oddities like Reagan’s penchant for jellybeans and George H.W. Bush's weird love of pork rinds, but distain for broccoli (which pales in comparison to him vomiting at a State Dinner on the Japanese PM’s lap).
It is no surprise that most of our early Presidents (except Jefferson & Madison) had modest tastes, because most of our country gentlemen leaders preferred simple fare. Woefully, because most of their meals were prepared by the remarkable slave-chefs that have left their mark on American food culture. But this is not a post about past politics, just a Chef’s observation about POTUS culinary history. To save time, I’ve listed just a few noteworthy Big Men that only governed during my lifetime:
John F. Kennedy and First Lady Jacqueline (Bouvier) Kennedy arrived at the White House from a wealthy and privileged upbringing. They brought with them unprecedented class and style to the dining scene there. Being the first real gourmand in office since Thomas Jefferson, JFK certainly shared that Founding Father’s taste for fine French cuisine. This was a time in our country that we all fell in love with the French cooking of Julia Child (my girl) and James Beard. Jackie brought in renowned French Chef René Verdon to run the White House kitchens and handle her penchant for glamorous entertaining. Decades before first lady Michelle Obama’s garden, Verdon grew vegetables on the White House roof and herbs in the East Garden. In the Kennedys almost three years there they hosted 14 notable State Dinners, as well as attending 8 international galas in Europe. However, even with his sophisticated palate, JFK was a Massachusetts guy through and through, thus his favorite food was New England Clam Chowder. In a global (and culinary} misstep, he famously said in a fine speech in West Berlin (during the cold war) "Ich bin ein Berliner", which translates to “I am a jelly donut." In his defense, I can’t find any record of him liking donuts at all.
Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle’s state dinners encapsulate the chaos and information overload of the 2010s. Both were foodies and frequent patrons of both the Chicago and Washington restaurant scenes. In fact, they dined at Maggiano’s in DC several times when I was the GM/EC there. Their daughters ate there even more often, which I appreciated since I only had to speak with two Secret Service Agents per visit, as opposed to the whole big spectacle for the POTUS. Unlike previous administrations, their style experimented so boldly with the state dinner formula so that there was almost nothing in common with one another, skipping merrily between styles. Not even the chefs stayed constant—an unprecedented move in the White House. The celebrity chefs Marcus Samuelsson, Rick Bayless, Anita Lo, and Mario Batali (ugh) each had a turn in the White House kitchen. Bayless, a Chicago chef associated with various Mexican restaurants, was recruited to prepare the state dinner honoring Mexican President Felipe Calderón on May 19, 2010. The Obamas were huge fans of his Mexican Restaurants in The Windy City. This week I’m going to prepare for you one of Rick’s most famous dishes, Chipotle Shrimp. One of the few threads tying Obama’s state dinners (only 13 in 8 years) together is their use of the White House kitchen garden. Alice Waters had been arguing for it since Clinton’s inauguration, but Michelle Obama jumped on it and planted an 1,100-square-foot organic vegetable garden on the South Lawn, in a tribute to the localism that had come to become such a dominant part of the fare. Time magazine nicknamed President Obama “America’s Eater-in-Chief”, yet curiously he claims broccoli (not to be served to GHWB), chili and nachos as his favorites (huh?). In an ironic twist, First Lady Michelle “Queen Healthy” ordered French fries at a state luncheon with Queen Elizabeth at Buckingham Palace. What?
Richard M. Nixon was not the culinary king or gourmand that he thought he was. His 40 state dinners were like his own character: convoluted, disparaged, and nearly destroyed by flaws. I am repulsed by his favorite breakfast of cottage cheese and ketchup and his absurd ban of soup (soup?) from the White House. During these dinners, this cheap skate secretly kept the best wines for himself, while the servants poured the lesser selections for the guests. However, he was also the first president to host (and serve lobster to) a leader of the Soviet Union—Leonid Brezhnev on June 18, 1973--Priyatnogo appetita! One unexpected winner in Nixon’s gastrodiplomacy, nonetheless was the American Chinese restaurant. The dinners hosted in his honor during his historic 1972 visit to China revolutionized restaurant menus in the United States. A country that knew of Chinese food mainly as chow mein and egg rolls was exposed to a variety of new dishes during the media blitz—General Tso’s Chicken and Peking duck, for instance. Food-related contradictions were always in evidence when Richard Nixon came to the White House. In 1968 he let it be known that one of his favorite dishes was the humble, all-American meatloaf. According to the "The White House Family Cookbook," the Nixon meatloaf caught the public's imagination so strongly that "Mrs. Nixon's meat loaf recipe was printed on White House stationery to be sent in response to the thousands of requests" (it was crap). This week I’m going to make you my favorite Wagyu "Kobe Beef" Meatloaf, served with lobster mashed (a sure “Poor Man’s Surf & Turf”) which I assure you, I have not stolen from First Lady Pat. “I am not a crook.”
Bill (Bubba Burger) Clinton & (Mc)Donald Trump. No presidential food article would be complete without a comment about these two modern era butterballs. You know when your eating habits are the most prolific skits on Saturday Night Live, you have probably choked down a few too many cheeseburgers. During their terms in office, they were the most notorious junk-food-junkies who regularly indulged in their favorite gut-busting meals. Trump actually served Big Macs to the Clemson Tiger Championship Team upon their visit to the White House. As I contemplate the disgusting excess of their fast-food indulgences, I can't help but ponder the truth behind the proverbial saying, "you are what you eat."
“I do not like broccoli. And I haven't liked it since I was a little kid and my mother made me eat it. And I'm President of the United States and I'm not going to eat any more broccoli.” - George H.W. Bush, U.S. President
February 8 2022
On Food + Football
I’m getting ready for another Super Bowl Sunday without my beloved N.Y. Giants. Sad for me, but nonetheless, I’ll have some undistracted time in the kitchen. Papa’s Comfort Kitchen will have some fun football food items for you to order for this weekend. Our soup kitchen will serve 100’s of “football themed” meals this week. Then on Sunday morning I’ll be cooking 1,000 (or so) breakfasts for our Jack’s Kids Charity. Later, back home for the big game, the vittles at my house will be yummy as well. So, what is this connection between food and football? Well, there is a long history that not only involves the progression of elaborate tailgating, the evolution of stadium concessions and of course everything Thanksgiving, but there is more!
Here is a brief look at some of the pastime points:
I hope everyone enjoys The Big Game, no matter who you’re rooting for. Wager smart, cheer loudly, hit a couple of boxes. The over/under is 2,400 calories for the day (2nd only to Thanksgiving). Doctors say that fans that are emotionally upset by a big loss tend to consume 1/3 more calories (and booze) than the victors. Remember that 2/3 of Americans won’t watch or give a hoot about the outcome. Monday everyone is back to 0-0. I, for one, will be rooting for the G-men even though I know they’re not playing. Game On!
“I go through life with a smile because I know things could be worse than they are." - Eli Manning
On Food + Football
I’m getting ready for another Super Bowl Sunday without my beloved N.Y. Giants. Sad for me, but nonetheless, I’ll have some undistracted time in the kitchen. Papa’s Comfort Kitchen will have some fun football food items for you to order for this weekend. Our soup kitchen will serve 100’s of “football themed” meals this week. Then on Sunday morning I’ll be cooking 1,000 (or so) breakfasts for our Jack’s Kids Charity. Later, back home for the big game, the vittles at my house will be yummy as well. So, what is this connection between food and football? Well, there is a long history that not only involves the progression of elaborate tailgating, the evolution of stadium concessions and of course everything Thanksgiving, but there is more!
Here is a brief look at some of the pastime points:
- Tailgating Culture for football actually pre-dates the automobile. The first college game ever was played just next door to us at College Field in New Brunswick - between Rutgers and Princeton in 1869. Local authorities insist “it was both a fine game and a fine party." The advent of the modern-day American approach to a fully mobile, vehicle-based cuisine changed with the invention of the automobile. The post WWII era lowered the cost to own a vehicle which led to the democratization of pre-football partying. The popularity of station wagons then provided both a name and a platform for the burgeoning practice. During the 1980s and 1990s tailgating took on a life of its own and turned into a social movement of sorts. As gas grills became more portable and coolers grew wheels, rows of parking spots transformed themselves into little villages, some with their own names and banners. Passionate competition for the most inventive and “wow” inducing dishes are waged every weekend. The ultimate tailgates in these lots are almost worthy of being judged along the lines of a culinary contest. FUN FACT: One survey found 30 percent of tailgaters never set foot in the stadium.
- Stadium Food is responsible for spreading (somewhat dull) sporting snacks across the nation. Now, though, it has grown up from popcorn, peanuts and cracker jacks. Stadiums across the country are focusing serious food by Star Chefs and Brand Names, featuring local goods and upscale concessions. Football stadiums lagged behind other sports, somewhat due to the size of the crowds that would need to be serviced and only eight home games just weren’t as profitable. But the fans were tired of dirty water dogs, flat beer and cold dry pretzels. Not just in the big markets with championship teams acquiesced, now you can get Shrimp & Grits at a Jacksonville Jaguars game or Chef Chris Shepherd's Slow Roasted Pork Belly at a Houston Texans game.
- Thanksgiving and NFL Football have been linked together seemingly forever, but not exclusively. That day we first tune in to the Detroit Lions hosting a game (since 1934) followed by the Dallas Cowboys (since 1966) and a prime-time game since 2006. However, not all football has been seen on TV. It all started in the 19th century when colleges regularly played on Turkey Day. Many high school rivalries still happen on this day, as well as the yearly back yard “Turkey Bowls” held in the morning (usually starting with hangovers and ending with pulled hamstrings). My massive meal has to be carefully timed in order not to miss too much TV action. I believe the dinner is still the star of the day, but not by much. Does everyone remember John Madden’s Six-Legged Turkey?
- Nachos were invented during WWII by Nacho Anaya at the Victory Club in Mexico. A popular choice of American airmen from just over the border from Fort Duncan Military Base in Texas. Introduced to Texas stadiums in 1976, they really hit the rest of the U.S. two years later during a Monday Night Football broadcast from Dallas when Howard Cosell gave them a ringing endorsement. Soon after they were the best-selling item in stadiums across the country. Those gooey, soon to be soggy chips are still around, but now certainly outshined by the well-crafted platters served in the better Mexican restaurants… everywhere.
- Competing Mayors regularly wager food items with each other on the outcome of the Super Bowl. My favorite was when the N.Y. Giants beat the New England Patriots in 2008, spoiling their perfect season. Boston Mayor Thomas Menino begrudgingly had to send 42 pounds of Dunkin’ Donuts coffee, 100 cups of clam chowder and 144 Boston cream pies to New York Mayor Michael Bloomberg (which he donated to a NYC soup kitchen).
- Buffalo Wings were invented at The Anchor Bar in Buffalo N.Y. in 1964 and 3 years later when the first Super Bowl was played, they quickly were married to football fans across America. Hungry fans will eat almost 1.5 billion chicken wings this Sunday. One problem is that wings only cost 25¢ per pound back in 1967. This year? Almost $4! The second problem is that even though chickens are bigger now, last I checked… still only 2 wings.
- Former football players and coaches love to open or invest in restaurants. Usually “manly” steakhouses or BBQ joints are their preference (Ditka’s and Shula’s come to mind). Some have bought up collections of franchises. Some just lend their name for a piece of the action. More than a few of the not-as-famous (or wealthy) players have become outstanding chefs in their own right. FUN FACT: Peyton Manning purchased 31 Denver-area Papa John’s franchises (since sold) when Colorado legalized marijuana. Good strategy, lousy pizza.
I hope everyone enjoys The Big Game, no matter who you’re rooting for. Wager smart, cheer loudly, hit a couple of boxes. The over/under is 2,400 calories for the day (2nd only to Thanksgiving). Doctors say that fans that are emotionally upset by a big loss tend to consume 1/3 more calories (and booze) than the victors. Remember that 2/3 of Americans won’t watch or give a hoot about the outcome. Monday everyone is back to 0-0. I, for one, will be rooting for the G-men even though I know they’re not playing. Game On!
“I go through life with a smile because I know things could be worse than they are." - Eli Manning
January 19 2022
Papa's 2022 (not 2020 too)
Here we are a couple of weeks into the new year. Denise and I took a much-needed break from work (and dodging Omicron) during the holidays and took a culinary trip to our old stomping grounds in Washington, D.C. The plan was to make a gastronomic pilgrimage to most of Jose Andres’ (my hero) restaurants. This revered chef’s charitable efforts are legendary and an inspiration for what I still do today. His diverse menus were always a must while we lived there, and we couldn’t wait to get back and feast. In fact, my plan was to pick a few of my favorite current dishes from his fare and humbly prepare them for you when I got back.
Nonetheless, Mother Nature had other plans for us. Snow in D.C. always makes everything come to a grinding halt and all of our dining plans were blown up. That being said, I did get to dive into a delish dish of Palak Chaat at Rasika - a modern Indian restaurant. It is an incredible creation of fried spinach with a cool chutney and yogurt dressing. I know that’s an underwhelming description, but trust me, it’s mind-blowing to eat.
Now, I’m not going to make that dish for you, it must be eaten immediately. However, I have chosen a few of the favorite restaurant dishes I did get to eat in 2021 and they will be ready for you Saturday morning.
This is the time of year when far too many of us put together a tall list of New Year’s resolutions already to find them beginning to crumble down. To many people a resolution is a vain attempt at replacing poor behaviors, lost opportunity, broken promises and failed attempts at positive change. Making a resolution is often a noble attempt at making corrections, while knowing that there is little chance that you will actually follow through. We are too hard on ourselves!
For me, I learned long-ago not to make New Year’s resolutions. Rather than go through that futile exercise that ends up with February frustration, I make a to-do list of things I wish to accomplish during the year. Keep it fun and uplifting! Some could be life-changing experiences, but if I needed to put them off a bit, no shame to see them onto next year’s bucket list. Others are just a reminder to do what I should do or even what I already do. So here is a mashup checklist of what I plan for this year.
So, there you have it, my little vision board (for now). Looks a little daunting at first, but really exhilarating as well. I really believe that when I challenge myself, it forces me to repeatedly make good decisions that are in line with my goals. I know I’ll never get to all of this, but it’s not about make-or-break. Similar to when I led restaurant teams of 200, my goal wasn’t “perfect”…. it was to lead the herd “roughly westward."
I know this post was a little self-serving and excuse me for that, but I just wanted to share a little Papa-love with you.
“Carpe Diem” (Seize the Day) - Robin Williams in “Dead Poets Society"
Papa's 2022 (not 2020 too)
Here we are a couple of weeks into the new year. Denise and I took a much-needed break from work (and dodging Omicron) during the holidays and took a culinary trip to our old stomping grounds in Washington, D.C. The plan was to make a gastronomic pilgrimage to most of Jose Andres’ (my hero) restaurants. This revered chef’s charitable efforts are legendary and an inspiration for what I still do today. His diverse menus were always a must while we lived there, and we couldn’t wait to get back and feast. In fact, my plan was to pick a few of my favorite current dishes from his fare and humbly prepare them for you when I got back.
Nonetheless, Mother Nature had other plans for us. Snow in D.C. always makes everything come to a grinding halt and all of our dining plans were blown up. That being said, I did get to dive into a delish dish of Palak Chaat at Rasika - a modern Indian restaurant. It is an incredible creation of fried spinach with a cool chutney and yogurt dressing. I know that’s an underwhelming description, but trust me, it’s mind-blowing to eat.
Now, I’m not going to make that dish for you, it must be eaten immediately. However, I have chosen a few of the favorite restaurant dishes I did get to eat in 2021 and they will be ready for you Saturday morning.
- The Lobster Stew from Eventide in Portland Maine
- Thai Coconut Shrimp Red Curry from “a little noodle bar” in Guanacaste Costa Rica (I know it’s not a usual CR dish, but amazing nonetheless)
- Boneless Grilled Beef Bulgogi from Her Name is Han in Koreatown Manhattan
This is the time of year when far too many of us put together a tall list of New Year’s resolutions already to find them beginning to crumble down. To many people a resolution is a vain attempt at replacing poor behaviors, lost opportunity, broken promises and failed attempts at positive change. Making a resolution is often a noble attempt at making corrections, while knowing that there is little chance that you will actually follow through. We are too hard on ourselves!
For me, I learned long-ago not to make New Year’s resolutions. Rather than go through that futile exercise that ends up with February frustration, I make a to-do list of things I wish to accomplish during the year. Keep it fun and uplifting! Some could be life-changing experiences, but if I needed to put them off a bit, no shame to see them onto next year’s bucket list. Others are just a reminder to do what I should do or even what I already do. So here is a mashup checklist of what I plan for this year.
- Papa’s next big project is paramount. We’ve cooked for a lot of needy people in 2021, but with bigger and better locations, we can do even more. If we use our abilities and our resources to maximize this potential, maybe we can keep punching a dent in food insecurity and it’ll begin to break.
- How about Papa’s Cooking Camp? Kid’s feeding their families. A whole new generation of culinary appreciation for community. Field of Dreams, maybe, but build it and they might just come.
- Or something like JBJ's Soul Kitchen? “All are welcome at our table.” If you can imagine it, it can be done.
- Listen and Engage. Teach and Train. Respect and Support.
- Better Meditation Practice. Mental health is a crisis in our country, and I certainly don’t like to be jerked around by my thoughts and emotions. Mindfulness will help you “surf the unwanted urges.” My minimum is 10-15 minutes in the morning, mostly of gratitude and enthusiasm. It works.
- Play more golf and (PLEASE) play it better. The kitchen can wait a minute. Cooking can be done after dark.
- Plan ahead properly, worry less. Avoid the negatives. Life is too short.
- Ecuador and Peru. The challenge of Machu Picchu will force me to set and achieve some physical goals.
- Continue to challenge myself culinarily. Perfect a few new dishes each month. Let’s start with the three above.
- One concert every month (at least!). War on Drugs: 1/29, Tool: 2/26, Khruangbin: 3/9, Joe Bonamassa 3/26…. just to start!
- St. Lucia (already booked).
- Restaurants to eat at for the 1st time:
- French Laundry, Yountville, CA
- Alinea, Chicago
- Bouley, NYC
- Joe’s BBQ, Kansas City
- Agricola, Princeton, NJ
- Brook’s Burgers, Naples, FL
- Commander’s Palace, N’Awlins
- Oxbow Beer Garden, Oxford, Maine
- Nobu, Vegas
- Sally’s Pizza, New Haven, CT (apologies to Frank Pepe)
- And most important, spending as much time as I can with our grandkids. I see some camping in my future.
So, there you have it, my little vision board (for now). Looks a little daunting at first, but really exhilarating as well. I really believe that when I challenge myself, it forces me to repeatedly make good decisions that are in line with my goals. I know I’ll never get to all of this, but it’s not about make-or-break. Similar to when I led restaurant teams of 200, my goal wasn’t “perfect”…. it was to lead the herd “roughly westward."
I know this post was a little self-serving and excuse me for that, but I just wanted to share a little Papa-love with you.
“Carpe Diem” (Seize the Day) - Robin Williams in “Dead Poets Society"
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December 20 2021
Papa Talks Christmas
Christmas has always been an exhausting yet exhilarating time for me. As a chef, it is the last leg of a frenetic holiday season that we’ve been working hard every day since before Thanksgiving. As a father of four and now a grandfather of six (soon to be 7), Christmas is a bounty of childhood wonderment. It is so amazing to see the excitement in their little faces as they rip through the wrapping paper and bust open the boxes. Each child has their own style - some frenzied without regard to the actual item, but to what was up next. Others meticulously untying the packaging and taking pause, even to model the new dress. The littlest ones really only care about playing with the paper.
The flavors, aromas and sounds we’ve come to associate with this season are so evocative — the sweet and savory baking smells of spice and citrus, roasting herbs and robust birds. A scent, sound or even a thought can bring back a direct connection to Christmases past. We create such an immersive atmosphere around this holiday – the food, the music, the lights, and of course all the social customs that bring us closer to each other. It’s super-charged with memories, as though time has collapsed and all the other Christmases we’ve enjoyed come to the surface. This year, similar to last, we have health concerns to add to our wish list. Despite the intrusion in our plans, no worries, we will persevere - we always do.
For me, once all the essential pageantry is complete, it is the Chef’s turn to shine.
Here are a few of my tips for your Christmas Kitchen Perfection:
Ahhh, the holidays… they are emblematic of who we are and who we wish to be. They embrace the full range of human history and emotion, amplifying it all, the good and bad, the happy and sad, yet spreading towards what is life-giving and generous: the belly laughs, the breaking of bread, the desire to extend our arms and blessings to others. Despite all the demands and noise of our to-do-list culture, there is a certain splendor and significance in these times we set aside – yearning for quiet stillness, and vitality. Yes, we make it all a bit chaotic, but being only human, it seems we really couldn’t and wouldn’t have it any other way.
"Christmas waves a magic wand over this world, and behold, everything is softer and more beautiful." - Norman Vincent Peale
Merry Christmas To All and To All A Good Night!
Papa Talks Christmas
Christmas has always been an exhausting yet exhilarating time for me. As a chef, it is the last leg of a frenetic holiday season that we’ve been working hard every day since before Thanksgiving. As a father of four and now a grandfather of six (soon to be 7), Christmas is a bounty of childhood wonderment. It is so amazing to see the excitement in their little faces as they rip through the wrapping paper and bust open the boxes. Each child has their own style - some frenzied without regard to the actual item, but to what was up next. Others meticulously untying the packaging and taking pause, even to model the new dress. The littlest ones really only care about playing with the paper.
The flavors, aromas and sounds we’ve come to associate with this season are so evocative — the sweet and savory baking smells of spice and citrus, roasting herbs and robust birds. A scent, sound or even a thought can bring back a direct connection to Christmases past. We create such an immersive atmosphere around this holiday – the food, the music, the lights, and of course all the social customs that bring us closer to each other. It’s super-charged with memories, as though time has collapsed and all the other Christmases we’ve enjoyed come to the surface. This year, similar to last, we have health concerns to add to our wish list. Despite the intrusion in our plans, no worries, we will persevere - we always do.
For me, once all the essential pageantry is complete, it is the Chef’s turn to shine.
Here are a few of my tips for your Christmas Kitchen Perfection:
- Plan ahead. Remember the 5 P’s - Proper Preparation Prevents Poor Performance
- But, once you have a comprehensive plan…. cut it back. Simple is sublime.
- Whatever you can do ahead, do it now (start by watching Charlie Brown’s Christmas).
- Get your playlist together - open with some Andy Williams and end up with Manheim Steamroller.
- Brine your turkey overnight. Nothing worse than a big dry bird!
- Cover your ham with foil until the last ½ hour, then lather on the glaze (cook @ 250 w/apple cider in the pan).
- Make sure you have enough baking pans and serving dishes. Beg, borrow or steal.
- Make your Yorkshire Pudding batter the night before for a perfect puffy rise.
- If you’re going to do the seven fishes Christmas Eve, pre-plan the leftovers (seafood omelets, everyone?).
- If you’re planning to cook a goose (delish!), call: Dartagnan immediately.
- Roast on low heat (165-ish).
- Save the fat - it’s liquid gold (nothing is better than goose-fat-fries).
- Please don’t boil your veggies. Roast them (maybe with your goose?)!
- Next level gravy? Boost the umami with a touch of dark soy sauce and cream sherry.
- Remember to compliment your Mom on her cookies. There will come a day when you can’t.
- I still cherish the memory of my Mom’s Christmas cookies and my Dad snitching them.
- You need fridge space, leave the beer and (white) wine outside.
- Don’t invite your vegan cousin. But if your rich uncle is a veggie… pass the brussels sprouts!
- At that moment when you’re feeling unsure - go ahead, peel another potato.
- Christmas morning can be mayhem but take 10 minutes to meditate first. You’ll enjoy the day even more!
- I’ll be doing an early appreciation meditation here.
- Take your time, have some fun. It’ll be ready when it’s ready (pour yourself a glass of wine).
- If anything goes wrong, who cares? Only you’ll know.
- "Always remember, if you're alone in the kitchen and you drop the lamb, you can always pick it up. Who's going to know?” - Julia Child
- Of course, order some dishes from Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen… it would be my pleasure to help!
Ahhh, the holidays… they are emblematic of who we are and who we wish to be. They embrace the full range of human history and emotion, amplifying it all, the good and bad, the happy and sad, yet spreading towards what is life-giving and generous: the belly laughs, the breaking of bread, the desire to extend our arms and blessings to others. Despite all the demands and noise of our to-do-list culture, there is a certain splendor and significance in these times we set aside – yearning for quiet stillness, and vitality. Yes, we make it all a bit chaotic, but being only human, it seems we really couldn’t and wouldn’t have it any other way.
"Christmas waves a magic wand over this world, and behold, everything is softer and more beautiful." - Norman Vincent Peale
Merry Christmas To All and To All A Good Night!
November 16 2021
Papa is Back! And it's time to talk turkey...
Ah... after a wonderful trip to some stimulating places, I am ready to get cooking for the Holidays. I am recharged for a return to some traditional celebrations after a year without. I have so much in my life to be thankful for, and this year I added another thing to that list - I am grateful for the faith in science that has carried us through this most difficult time and that will allow us to rise up anew – refreshed and positive as the virus is slowly brought under control. I am hopeful that what seems to have separated us will now help us to heal and come together. I am fully aware that to some Americans this is a day of mourning and I am sensitive to that. But I believe that when we look in a mirror there will always be more that unites us than tears us apart.
For me personally, Thanksgiving has always been my favorite day (week) of the year. A long time ago, this meal was the first large gathering I ever cooked when my mother was ill, and I stepped in (at age 14). In the aftermath of Superstorm Sandy, it was an honor to be able to put together a team of like-minded volunteers and cook for over 1,000 displaced Jersey Shore residents.
This year, our “Not Just Soup” Kitchen is getting ready to serve over ten thousand meals during this Holiday season. To add insult to injury, the ridiculous price of food now has increased the need for our services.
Additionally, my Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen will be cooking 7 days a week for your enjoyment during this time.
This Thanksgiving my thoughts are especially with restaurants and other small businesses that make up the backbone of our economy, for which this has been a catastrophic year. First the pandemic, then staffing issues and rising prices have created painful difficulties causing limited hours and services. Some closed their doors and will not reopen; others have struggled to hang on with hope of a better tomorrow. Those who could not weather the storm should know that other opportunities will arise, and they will need our encouragement and engagement to recover. Your hospitality has always been one of the best things about this time of year - THANK YOU!
Here are some of the things I’m looking forward to this Thanksgiving...
“As we express our gratitude, we must never forget that the highest appreciation is not to just utter the words, but to live by them.” - JFK
Papa is Back! And it's time to talk turkey...
Ah... after a wonderful trip to some stimulating places, I am ready to get cooking for the Holidays. I am recharged for a return to some traditional celebrations after a year without. I have so much in my life to be thankful for, and this year I added another thing to that list - I am grateful for the faith in science that has carried us through this most difficult time and that will allow us to rise up anew – refreshed and positive as the virus is slowly brought under control. I am hopeful that what seems to have separated us will now help us to heal and come together. I am fully aware that to some Americans this is a day of mourning and I am sensitive to that. But I believe that when we look in a mirror there will always be more that unites us than tears us apart.
For me personally, Thanksgiving has always been my favorite day (week) of the year. A long time ago, this meal was the first large gathering I ever cooked when my mother was ill, and I stepped in (at age 14). In the aftermath of Superstorm Sandy, it was an honor to be able to put together a team of like-minded volunteers and cook for over 1,000 displaced Jersey Shore residents.
This year, our “Not Just Soup” Kitchen is getting ready to serve over ten thousand meals during this Holiday season. To add insult to injury, the ridiculous price of food now has increased the need for our services.
Additionally, my Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen will be cooking 7 days a week for your enjoyment during this time.
This Thanksgiving my thoughts are especially with restaurants and other small businesses that make up the backbone of our economy, for which this has been a catastrophic year. First the pandemic, then staffing issues and rising prices have created painful difficulties causing limited hours and services. Some closed their doors and will not reopen; others have struggled to hang on with hope of a better tomorrow. Those who could not weather the storm should know that other opportunities will arise, and they will need our encouragement and engagement to recover. Your hospitality has always been one of the best things about this time of year - THANK YOU!
Here are some of the things I’m looking forward to this Thanksgiving...
- Planning the week (200 turkeys takes some thought)
- Leftovers - particularly the next day cold turkey sandwich (with all the works!)
- Blaring Arlo Guthrie’s “Alice’s Restaurant” in the kitchen (20 minutes, twice)
- Gravy, gravy and more gravy
- Rooting for whoever is playing the Cowboys
- Arguing with friends about the effects of tryptophan (it’s not why you’re tired)
- I always get the turkey oysters (nobody else knows where they are)
- Hearing from old friends (even if it’s really only to ask me how long to cook their turkey)
- The POTUS pardoning a turkey
- Blackout Wednesday (for you - no time for me)
- Macy’s Parade - but only on TV
- Charlie Brown Thanksgiving
- No gift giving
- Secular blessings
- Turkey trots
- Front yard football
- Taking a moment to say “Thank You” to my family
- Still getting to cook for you
“As we express our gratitude, we must never forget that the highest appreciation is not to just utter the words, but to live by them.” - JFK
October 14 2021
Why Papa Cooks! And your complimentary invitation to my Tasting Party.
I have always felt that cooking for people and giving them a chance to break bread together is a noble effort and the think I am most honored to do. A Chef's goal might not be to change the world, but we can make a difference in the life of a person who needs to feel special - even for just a brief moment, changing everything, one meal at a time. You learn a lot about yourself and others when you cook with them and form them.
When I was younger, the underlying question seemed to be - “did I choose the right path?" or "did I even have a choice anyway?" I came from a loving family with a commitment to higher education and no desire to push their son down the hard road. So, why cooking? Then, once I was drawn in and that decision was made – how does one justify the consequences of that choice? I’ve been burnt, cut, broken, physically wasted, mentally anguished and nearly bankrupt. But I know that, at times, so have a lot of you. So, why would I complain? This has always been part of the deal. Yet, in spite of all the adversities, I was always fully aware (and grateful) that my future as a cook and chef always lied in my own hands. My hope for my future was whatever I wanted it to be. My goals were always in sight if I was willing to work hard enough to get there – the world is and always has been my oyster.
In the end, the choice was perfect for me. I have been one of the luckiest ones. As I reflect on a life well-lived and a career that I consider successful, I smile warmly. I have had my share of awards and accolades, yet nothing is more gratifying than where I am right now. Feeding those in need, elbow-to-elbow with the benevolent efforts of the Branchburg Rotary, the Bound Brook Presbyterian Church and our “Not Just Soup” Kitchen, is the most wonderful gift I have yet to earn. Every morning I wake up counting my blessings - for still being given this ability and desire to... just cook. Still, each day, before the first block of butter is melted, I do an affirmation check of these boxes.
Every morning, I take a look into the mirror and deep into my own eyes. I no longer see my past façade – that sometimes irritable, often temperamental, swashbuckling and ostensibly pretentious person wielding sharp knives and hot pans. You know – the person who can smile at you one minute and then scream at you the next. There is no reason for this split personality, right? Calmer now, I look deep into my eyes and I still see a young vibrant cook - like the lead singer in a band. Sometime, if you have the chance to observe a busy kitchen, notice it’s like a well-orchestrated concert. Each member playing their own part, in harmony. Take that moment to look into the passionate cooks’ eyes (they’re like rock stars!) and you too will hear some special music.
See you Tuesday Night!
“And the sounds we make together is the music to the story in your eyes,
It’s been shining down upon me, now I realize”. - Justin Hayward, The Moody Blues
Why Papa Cooks! And your complimentary invitation to my Tasting Party.
I have always felt that cooking for people and giving them a chance to break bread together is a noble effort and the think I am most honored to do. A Chef's goal might not be to change the world, but we can make a difference in the life of a person who needs to feel special - even for just a brief moment, changing everything, one meal at a time. You learn a lot about yourself and others when you cook with them and form them.
When I was younger, the underlying question seemed to be - “did I choose the right path?" or "did I even have a choice anyway?" I came from a loving family with a commitment to higher education and no desire to push their son down the hard road. So, why cooking? Then, once I was drawn in and that decision was made – how does one justify the consequences of that choice? I’ve been burnt, cut, broken, physically wasted, mentally anguished and nearly bankrupt. But I know that, at times, so have a lot of you. So, why would I complain? This has always been part of the deal. Yet, in spite of all the adversities, I was always fully aware (and grateful) that my future as a cook and chef always lied in my own hands. My hope for my future was whatever I wanted it to be. My goals were always in sight if I was willing to work hard enough to get there – the world is and always has been my oyster.
In the end, the choice was perfect for me. I have been one of the luckiest ones. As I reflect on a life well-lived and a career that I consider successful, I smile warmly. I have had my share of awards and accolades, yet nothing is more gratifying than where I am right now. Feeding those in need, elbow-to-elbow with the benevolent efforts of the Branchburg Rotary, the Bound Brook Presbyterian Church and our “Not Just Soup” Kitchen, is the most wonderful gift I have yet to earn. Every morning I wake up counting my blessings - for still being given this ability and desire to... just cook. Still, each day, before the first block of butter is melted, I do an affirmation check of these boxes.
- I am still proud to be a cook, and a custodian of all the beautiful ingredients that nature offers us to cook.
- I am still willing and able to tie on this apron - my coat of arms.
- I know that great cooking comes from an appreciation of diverse cultures and culinary practices.
- I embrace the good, the bad and the ugly of this profession and still bare my soul.
- I still believe that genuine hospitality makes the world a better place.
- I love making people feel special. “You exceeded my expectations” is music to my ears.
- I’ve learned the difference between critique and disparagement. I recognize the prior and reject the latter.
- Solving the daily puzzle and bringing things to fruition is still tremendously rewarding.
- Do I really hate the pain? Or do I unconsciously crave it? (Lingering issues?)
- I am optimistic (yet realistic) about our post-pandemic futures.
- I am able to laugh at my own swagger as well as my insecurities.
- I still sweat the details.
- It warms my heart (and ears) to retire years of hearing “Yes Chef!” - replaced by “Buenos Dias, Papa.”
- The adrenaline rush is still a real high.
- All of this is still in my heart, body and soul. My DNA.
- What would I do if I wasn’t cooking? (Very risky!)
- Why do I cook? Because it’s who I am.
Every morning, I take a look into the mirror and deep into my own eyes. I no longer see my past façade – that sometimes irritable, often temperamental, swashbuckling and ostensibly pretentious person wielding sharp knives and hot pans. You know – the person who can smile at you one minute and then scream at you the next. There is no reason for this split personality, right? Calmer now, I look deep into my eyes and I still see a young vibrant cook - like the lead singer in a band. Sometime, if you have the chance to observe a busy kitchen, notice it’s like a well-orchestrated concert. Each member playing their own part, in harmony. Take that moment to look into the passionate cooks’ eyes (they’re like rock stars!) and you too will hear some special music.
See you Tuesday Night!
“And the sounds we make together is the music to the story in your eyes,
It’s been shining down upon me, now I realize”. - Justin Hayward, The Moody Blues
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September 30 2021
October is National Seafood Month!
Papa’s Ultimate Guide to Eating Your Way Through the Next 31 days
October is National Seafood Month – a distinction proclaimed by Congress over 30 years ago to recognize one of our nation's oldest industries. Seafood is not only important to our nation’s food security and coastal economies, government figures show that nationwide, the seafood industry puts over 300,000 Americans to work and contributes $70 billion to the U.S. economy each year. If you have followed my posts, you know that every month for me is filled with seafood. From buttery lobster tails, to plump oysters, to shrimp cocktail and sushi… I just can’t get enough. Besides being super scrumptious, eating fish and shellfish has a plethora of major health benefits.
I have taken it upon myself to personally try all the dishes that I’m recommending you eat this month. Although thousands of great dishes fit the bill - I have listed just enough to fill up your month and your belly. It was a painstaking chore, but someone needed to do it. I kept it mostly local, however, in future posts I’ll share with you some of the most amazing fish meals I’ve had globally.
Go out on the town and have some fun! Hit up your favorite seafood restaurant with friends and family - and enjoy some of your favorite seafood dishes. #NationalSeafoodMonth to post on social media. If you can get down the shore, spend a day or two fishing out on the water. Since there are limitless amounts of great seafood recipes, this is the month to get crackin’ and cookin’. Here is my strategy, let me know your favorites so I can add them to the list.
Fri. 10/1 - Papa Jim’s (of course) Drunken Garlic Shrimp @ The Meghan Rose Charity Ball
Sat. 10/2 - Be a Traveling Chowder Taster @ the New L.B. I. ChowderFest
Mon. 10/4 - National Taco Day with Tempura Fish Tacos. @ The Salted Lime
Tue. 10/5 - The Lobster Reuben @ The Dunellen Hotel (Hey Rich! Irish Lobster? I’m all in!)
Wed. 10/6 - The Day Boat Scallop Appetizer @ Boulevard Seafood (definitely order 2)
Fri. 10/8 - Tuscan Garlic Mussels with Papa @ Somerville Italian Night (contact me for a table)
Sat. 10/9 - National Pizza & Beer Day... road trip!
Tue. 10/12 - National Gumbo Day... A no brainer! Order Papa’s N'Awlins Shrimp & Crab Gumbo today.
Wed. 10/13 - The Hotsy-Totsy Shrimp Appetizer @ Espo's (say hi to Nick!)
Thu. 10/14 - da Filippos! Just order any dish that Chef Filippo recommends (he might also play piano for you).
Fri. 10/15 - National Red Wine Day so bring a good bottle of Pinot Noir to Savor for their Zuppa di Pesce.
Sat. 10/16 - For World Food Day, I must have the Garlic-Butter Shrimp Appetizer from DeMartinos.
Sun. 10/17 - Papa’s heading to Maine to pick up lobsters for Tuesday’s National Seafood Bisque Day!
Wed. 10/20 - International Chefs Day with The Red Curry (shrimp / salmon) @ Origins is my favorite dish in Somerville.
Thu. 10/21 - The Seafood Tower @ Char Steakhouse (say hi to Kyle).
Fri.10/22 - Grilled Octopus @ Verve (say hi to Rick).
Sat. 10/23 - Fried Calamari @ Maggiano's (still tender @ my old digs).
Sun. 10/24 - Food Day with Crab Cake Benedict @ Project Pub's Brunch (also get the Bloody Mary board).
Mon. 10/25 - World Pasta Day with the Linguine and Clams @ Cafe Venezia will hit the spot.
Tue. 10/26 - Chilean Sea Bass @ Wolfgang's Steak House (get it medium/crispy... they’ll know).
Wed. 10/27 - The Risotto alla Pescatore @ Cafe Picasso will leave you flabbergasted.
Thu. 10/28 - The Chef’s Tasting Menu @ Ninety Acres - go ahead spoil yourself!
Fri. 10/29 - The Potato Crusted Halibut @ Salt Seafood. Perfect before a show at the State Theatre.
Sat. 10/30 - Stephanie & Sam’s Wedding! If you’re invited (or crashing), the raw bar will be spectacular.
Use National Seafood Month to find sustainable seafood and try new dishes - there’s something for everyone. While this celebration is technically only one month long, I love to celebrate it all year. There’s a variety of fish and seafood available year-round, so take a minute to take a look around for your favorites and enjoy!
"Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime." - Maimonides
October is National Seafood Month!
Papa’s Ultimate Guide to Eating Your Way Through the Next 31 days
October is National Seafood Month – a distinction proclaimed by Congress over 30 years ago to recognize one of our nation's oldest industries. Seafood is not only important to our nation’s food security and coastal economies, government figures show that nationwide, the seafood industry puts over 300,000 Americans to work and contributes $70 billion to the U.S. economy each year. If you have followed my posts, you know that every month for me is filled with seafood. From buttery lobster tails, to plump oysters, to shrimp cocktail and sushi… I just can’t get enough. Besides being super scrumptious, eating fish and shellfish has a plethora of major health benefits.
I have taken it upon myself to personally try all the dishes that I’m recommending you eat this month. Although thousands of great dishes fit the bill - I have listed just enough to fill up your month and your belly. It was a painstaking chore, but someone needed to do it. I kept it mostly local, however, in future posts I’ll share with you some of the most amazing fish meals I’ve had globally.
Go out on the town and have some fun! Hit up your favorite seafood restaurant with friends and family - and enjoy some of your favorite seafood dishes. #NationalSeafoodMonth to post on social media. If you can get down the shore, spend a day or two fishing out on the water. Since there are limitless amounts of great seafood recipes, this is the month to get crackin’ and cookin’. Here is my strategy, let me know your favorites so I can add them to the list.
Fri. 10/1 - Papa Jim’s (of course) Drunken Garlic Shrimp @ The Meghan Rose Charity Ball
Sat. 10/2 - Be a Traveling Chowder Taster @ the New L.B. I. ChowderFest
- Start slurping now, voting closes midnight 10/2 (BTW, I won the white chowder contest in ’96)
Mon. 10/4 - National Taco Day with Tempura Fish Tacos. @ The Salted Lime
Tue. 10/5 - The Lobster Reuben @ The Dunellen Hotel (Hey Rich! Irish Lobster? I’m all in!)
Wed. 10/6 - The Day Boat Scallop Appetizer @ Boulevard Seafood (definitely order 2)
- Note: Viking Village in Ocean County hauls in the best scallops in the world. They don’t sell retail right now, but ask your local fishmonger to get you some!
Fri. 10/8 - Tuscan Garlic Mussels with Papa @ Somerville Italian Night (contact me for a table)
Sat. 10/9 - National Pizza & Beer Day... road trip!
- It’s worth the drive to Federici's in Freehold to pick up a couple of pies - including the thin crust shrimp scampi pie.
- It’s not really out of the way to stop @ Kane Brewing Co. for a couple of growlers to complete the meal.
- An amazing market to pick up a bounty of fresh seafood. Don’t forget the oysters!
Tue. 10/12 - National Gumbo Day... A no brainer! Order Papa’s N'Awlins Shrimp & Crab Gumbo today.
Wed. 10/13 - The Hotsy-Totsy Shrimp Appetizer @ Espo's (say hi to Nick!)
Thu. 10/14 - da Filippos! Just order any dish that Chef Filippo recommends (he might also play piano for you).
Fri. 10/15 - National Red Wine Day so bring a good bottle of Pinot Noir to Savor for their Zuppa di Pesce.
Sat. 10/16 - For World Food Day, I must have the Garlic-Butter Shrimp Appetizer from DeMartinos.
Sun. 10/17 - Papa’s heading to Maine to pick up lobsters for Tuesday’s National Seafood Bisque Day!
- 12pm - Fried Whole Belly Clams and a Lobster Roll @ Bob’s Clam Hut, Kittery
- 4pm - Steamers @ Scales, Portland
- 6pm - Lobster Rolls and Oysters @ Eventide, Portland
- 7am - Lobster Pie @ Maine Diner, Wells
- 12pm - White Clam Pie @ Frank Pepe’s, New Haven
Wed. 10/20 - International Chefs Day with The Red Curry (shrimp / salmon) @ Origins is my favorite dish in Somerville.
Thu. 10/21 - The Seafood Tower @ Char Steakhouse (say hi to Kyle).
Fri.10/22 - Grilled Octopus @ Verve (say hi to Rick).
Sat. 10/23 - Fried Calamari @ Maggiano's (still tender @ my old digs).
Sun. 10/24 - Food Day with Crab Cake Benedict @ Project Pub's Brunch (also get the Bloody Mary board).
Mon. 10/25 - World Pasta Day with the Linguine and Clams @ Cafe Venezia will hit the spot.
Tue. 10/26 - Chilean Sea Bass @ Wolfgang's Steak House (get it medium/crispy... they’ll know).
Wed. 10/27 - The Risotto alla Pescatore @ Cafe Picasso will leave you flabbergasted.
Thu. 10/28 - The Chef’s Tasting Menu @ Ninety Acres - go ahead spoil yourself!
Fri. 10/29 - The Potato Crusted Halibut @ Salt Seafood. Perfect before a show at the State Theatre.
Sat. 10/30 - Stephanie & Sam’s Wedding! If you’re invited (or crashing), the raw bar will be spectacular.
- Denise is still the best damn clam shucker I’ve ever seen - check out the photo for proof!
Use National Seafood Month to find sustainable seafood and try new dishes - there’s something for everyone. While this celebration is technically only one month long, I love to celebrate it all year. There’s a variety of fish and seafood available year-round, so take a minute to take a look around for your favorites and enjoy!
"Give a man a fish, and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish, and you feed him for a lifetime." - Maimonides
September 23 2021
Jersey Fresh - Part 2: Sweet Corn (random musings, a riddle and a recipe)
The summer has just wound down, but some of our Garden State’s finest goodies are still at peak ripeness. One of the benefits to this hot and wet summer is that some of our local produce had a banner year - especially our celebrated corn. Sweet corn grown during the New Jersey summers is unlike any other. Our fertile clay soil is ideal for growing strong 10 ft. stalks. Our iconic corn, originally known as Silver Queen, is now a mix of several hybrid varieties - all descendants of the “Queen." They have long rows of soft, milky white kernels. Sweet corn hybrids slow the production of sugar into starch - keeping the grains sweet and soft after harvesting. This special New Jersey delicacy is a staple in markets and farm stands across the state. I buy mine right out of the back of a piled-high pickup truck, parked off Route 31 in Hampton. It comes from Donaldson's Farms in Hackettstown and they are amazing. Whatever you do, don’t shuck your corn at the store - wait 'til you’re ready to eat!
Today, there are several unsettled debates regarding sweet corn. The first debate is what is the right way to eat it off the cob? This is, of course, an extremely serious question that can reveal vast amounts of information regarding your personality. Are you a neat freak and eat the corn in rows - moving along the cob as an old-fashioned manual typewriter, only turning it at the end? Are you a creative right-brainer and eat around the cob circularly turning it like a rolling pin? Maybe you belong in the rabid squirrel category and take random nibbles all around the cob? Do you skip the whole eating off the cob thing and strip the cob of its kernels before eating? Do you only eat the middle because the ends are inferior? Or (pretty weird) do you hold and eat it vertically?
The next debate is how to cook corn on the cob. Or you like to eat it raw? People swear by whatever method they use and will defend it defiantly if challenged. Some cooking methods include boiling, steaming, poaching, grilling or roasting — with or without the husk — and even microwaving. There are pluses and minuses to each method, and it might change depending on what else is happening in the kitchen. I prefer mine momentarily boiled, rolled in Kerry butter, sprinkled with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Or as “Elote” - simply corn in Spanish, smothered with a spicy aioli, fresh herbs and Cotija cheese... delicioso!
THE RIDDLE:
What is the only food that we first throw away the outside, then cook the inside, then eat the outside and throw away the inside?
Of course, you know the answer, so use this riddle to win free drinks from your friends!
So, what do you do when you buy too much corn out of the back of a truck? Make Sweet Corn Fritters!
THE RECIPE
Ingredients:
In a bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, pepper and sugar. Add the melted butter, beaten egg, corn, cheese and onions. Put just enough oil to cover the bottom of a cast-iron skillet (or non-stick pan) on medium heat. When the oil is hot, drop the batter by the spoonful’s into the skillet and cook until golden brown. Place the fritters on a dish lined with paper towels. Sweet corn fritters can be served plain or with butter, honey, sour cream or maple syrup. Bon Appetit!
“Corn is the only food you hold like corn." - Dana Gould
Jersey Fresh - Part 2: Sweet Corn (random musings, a riddle and a recipe)
The summer has just wound down, but some of our Garden State’s finest goodies are still at peak ripeness. One of the benefits to this hot and wet summer is that some of our local produce had a banner year - especially our celebrated corn. Sweet corn grown during the New Jersey summers is unlike any other. Our fertile clay soil is ideal for growing strong 10 ft. stalks. Our iconic corn, originally known as Silver Queen, is now a mix of several hybrid varieties - all descendants of the “Queen." They have long rows of soft, milky white kernels. Sweet corn hybrids slow the production of sugar into starch - keeping the grains sweet and soft after harvesting. This special New Jersey delicacy is a staple in markets and farm stands across the state. I buy mine right out of the back of a piled-high pickup truck, parked off Route 31 in Hampton. It comes from Donaldson's Farms in Hackettstown and they are amazing. Whatever you do, don’t shuck your corn at the store - wait 'til you’re ready to eat!
Today, there are several unsettled debates regarding sweet corn. The first debate is what is the right way to eat it off the cob? This is, of course, an extremely serious question that can reveal vast amounts of information regarding your personality. Are you a neat freak and eat the corn in rows - moving along the cob as an old-fashioned manual typewriter, only turning it at the end? Are you a creative right-brainer and eat around the cob circularly turning it like a rolling pin? Maybe you belong in the rabid squirrel category and take random nibbles all around the cob? Do you skip the whole eating off the cob thing and strip the cob of its kernels before eating? Do you only eat the middle because the ends are inferior? Or (pretty weird) do you hold and eat it vertically?
The next debate is how to cook corn on the cob. Or you like to eat it raw? People swear by whatever method they use and will defend it defiantly if challenged. Some cooking methods include boiling, steaming, poaching, grilling or roasting — with or without the husk — and even microwaving. There are pluses and minuses to each method, and it might change depending on what else is happening in the kitchen. I prefer mine momentarily boiled, rolled in Kerry butter, sprinkled with sea salt and cracked black pepper. Or as “Elote” - simply corn in Spanish, smothered with a spicy aioli, fresh herbs and Cotija cheese... delicioso!
- Corn is a human invention. Corn or Maize started as a wild grass. Over 10,000 years ago, people from Southern Mexico collected and consumed a grass called "teosinte," which is now what we call "maize" (field corn). These early agriculture pioneers learned to cross-pollinate these skinny grasses into plump productive corn - quite an innovation. From Mexico, maize spread during migrations, into the southwest areas of the US, South America and then the rest of globe.
- Maize is an Indian word meaning “sacred mother,” or “giver of life." Corn is the “cornerstone” (lol) of Mexican food. Virtually every dish in Mexican cuisine uses maize. In the form of grain or cornmeal, maize is the main ingredient of tortillas, tamales, pozole, atole and all the dishes based on them - like tacos, quesadillas, chilaquiles, enchiladas, tostadas and many more.
- Oddly, there is always an even number of row of kernels on every cob of corn. The average number of kernels in a usual 16-row cob of corn is 800. Apparently these ancient indigenous farmers were also witty arithmeticians. A pound of corn consists of approximately 1,300 kernels.
- If the crop is only “knee high by the 4th of July” (as the saying goes), we are going to have a bad season!
- Corn is an ingredient in a multitude of non-food items such as fireworks, antibiotics, plastics, fabrics, rust preventatives, glue, paint, dyes, tires, laundry detergent, soap, aspirin, shoe polish, ink, cosmetics, glue, insulation, paper, pet food and, yes, those annoying protective packaging seals.
- Corn is also used to produce ethanol (ethyl alcohol), a first-generation liquid biofuel that makes gasoline burn cleaner, supposedly reducing air pollution - and (they say) it doesn't pollute the water. However, this use also drives up corn and livestock prices (but that is for another day).
- Antarctica is the only continent that doesn’t grow corn. But I think they have plenty of candy corn.
- One bushel of corn will sweeten more than 400 cans of Coca-Cola. However, that’s high fructose corn syrup (another topic for another day).
- The corncob (ear) is actually part of the corn plant’s flower. And... corn is also a grain, a fruit and a vegetable. Questions?
- Corn is America's #1 field crop. The #2 crop in the world to sugarcane, but still ahead of marijuana.
- Remember, without corn, we wouldn’t have the crop circle mystery!
THE RIDDLE:
What is the only food that we first throw away the outside, then cook the inside, then eat the outside and throw away the inside?
Of course, you know the answer, so use this riddle to win free drinks from your friends!
So, what do you do when you buy too much corn out of the back of a truck? Make Sweet Corn Fritters!
THE RECIPE
Ingredients:
- 3 cups corn fresh corn kernels fresh - just stripped from the cob
- 1 cup all purpose flour
- 1/2 tablespoons melted salted butter (Kerry butter, please)
- 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
- 1 teaspoon baking powder
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1/4 teaspoon pepper
- 2 eggs
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1/3 cup green onions thinly sliced
- 1/2 cup shredded cheddar cheese
- Vegetable oil for frying
In a bowl, whisk together flour, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, pepper and sugar. Add the melted butter, beaten egg, corn, cheese and onions. Put just enough oil to cover the bottom of a cast-iron skillet (or non-stick pan) on medium heat. When the oil is hot, drop the batter by the spoonful’s into the skillet and cook until golden brown. Place the fritters on a dish lined with paper towels. Sweet corn fritters can be served plain or with butter, honey, sour cream or maple syrup. Bon Appetit!
“Corn is the only food you hold like corn." - Dana Gould
September 16 2021
After the Flood - Another NJ Nightmare
The final insult of the hottest and wettest summer on record was a bitch of a storm. We saw her coming as she ravaged the southern states on her way to us. How could we prepare for a foot of rain on top of already saturated ground? Well, we couldn’t.
Our country possesses some of the most intense, violently shifting weather patterns in the world and we endure some of the most diverse tragic conditions. The number of climate-induced disasters in the US has doubled in the last couple of decades and NJ has had more than our share. Floyd, Irene, Sandy and now Ida have cruelly swept away too many of the homes our state. Businesses that are already reeling from Covid are now closed due the impact of the storm.
As Ida lay waste to our area, I and my fellow cooks and chefs tied on our aprons in an attempt to help feed those in a state of despair. Our “Not Just Soup” Kitchen’s everyday mission is to provide meals for the underserved in our area - but this catastrophe meant we had to turn up the heat. The Branchburg Rotary, Somerville Elks and other like-minded organizations jumped into the fray to help those in our community. I am in awe of their tireless work and effective use of donated food and supplies.
Jose Andres and his World Kitchen army of volunteers are a perfect model for how we should act in this kind of emergency. Jose knows that the most critical part of any recovery is feeding the people. Nothing can happen without that. As cooks and chefs, we share a gift and a package of skills that obligates us to do just that. How can we make this crisis just a little bit better? Isn’t this something in our core, a goal we all share? I know it is.
As we delivered needed supplies around our ravaged towns, it was shocking to see the devastation - not just in the expected places of Manville and Bound Brook, but EVERYWHERE. Storms like this effect the rich and the poor alike and their ability to get nourishing meals. It was difficult getting around to those who need it most.
In a world where our supply chain has been brutally damaged by Covid, these natural calamities are having such an impact on our agriculture and food production that it hampers our efforts to eradicate hunger and achieve sustainability.
To add to our already stressed-out life was the remembrance of 9/11 and the pain we all had to relive. A retrospect on that unprecedented impact on the American psyche seems a little overwhelming at this time, while we are patching up these fresh wounds.
Also, the beginning of the most important school year of a generation. A great many of our children who have spent the last year and half separated from their schoolmates are now headed back, but maybe not as happy as they should be. Their parents are left to purge their destroyed homes and clean up the debris. Mom and Dad aren’t getting to enjoy the wave at the bus stop. They are left on an island to individually battle with the insurance companies and at the mercy of the overworked contractors at a time when the labor pool is drained. It is also hard to imagine that in what should be a joyous return, many children are going to arrive at school hungry due to Ida. One of the biggest obstacles to effective learning is adequate nutrition - and it shouldn’t be this way.
We might not have all the answers on how to combat our climate crisis, but one thing we can and must do is be prepared to feed those in need and fight like hell to get to them.
“Wherever there is a fight so hungry people can eat, I’ll be there.” - Tom Joad, “Grapes of Wrath”
After the Flood - Another NJ Nightmare
The final insult of the hottest and wettest summer on record was a bitch of a storm. We saw her coming as she ravaged the southern states on her way to us. How could we prepare for a foot of rain on top of already saturated ground? Well, we couldn’t.
Our country possesses some of the most intense, violently shifting weather patterns in the world and we endure some of the most diverse tragic conditions. The number of climate-induced disasters in the US has doubled in the last couple of decades and NJ has had more than our share. Floyd, Irene, Sandy and now Ida have cruelly swept away too many of the homes our state. Businesses that are already reeling from Covid are now closed due the impact of the storm.
As Ida lay waste to our area, I and my fellow cooks and chefs tied on our aprons in an attempt to help feed those in a state of despair. Our “Not Just Soup” Kitchen’s everyday mission is to provide meals for the underserved in our area - but this catastrophe meant we had to turn up the heat. The Branchburg Rotary, Somerville Elks and other like-minded organizations jumped into the fray to help those in our community. I am in awe of their tireless work and effective use of donated food and supplies.
Jose Andres and his World Kitchen army of volunteers are a perfect model for how we should act in this kind of emergency. Jose knows that the most critical part of any recovery is feeding the people. Nothing can happen without that. As cooks and chefs, we share a gift and a package of skills that obligates us to do just that. How can we make this crisis just a little bit better? Isn’t this something in our core, a goal we all share? I know it is.
As we delivered needed supplies around our ravaged towns, it was shocking to see the devastation - not just in the expected places of Manville and Bound Brook, but EVERYWHERE. Storms like this effect the rich and the poor alike and their ability to get nourishing meals. It was difficult getting around to those who need it most.
In a world where our supply chain has been brutally damaged by Covid, these natural calamities are having such an impact on our agriculture and food production that it hampers our efforts to eradicate hunger and achieve sustainability.
To add to our already stressed-out life was the remembrance of 9/11 and the pain we all had to relive. A retrospect on that unprecedented impact on the American psyche seems a little overwhelming at this time, while we are patching up these fresh wounds.
Also, the beginning of the most important school year of a generation. A great many of our children who have spent the last year and half separated from their schoolmates are now headed back, but maybe not as happy as they should be. Their parents are left to purge their destroyed homes and clean up the debris. Mom and Dad aren’t getting to enjoy the wave at the bus stop. They are left on an island to individually battle with the insurance companies and at the mercy of the overworked contractors at a time when the labor pool is drained. It is also hard to imagine that in what should be a joyous return, many children are going to arrive at school hungry due to Ida. One of the biggest obstacles to effective learning is adequate nutrition - and it shouldn’t be this way.
We might not have all the answers on how to combat our climate crisis, but one thing we can and must do is be prepared to feed those in need and fight like hell to get to them.
“Wherever there is a fight so hungry people can eat, I’ll be there.” - Tom Joad, “Grapes of Wrath”
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August 30 2021
Jersey Fresh - Part 1: The Mighty Tomato
This a thrilling time of the year for local chefs and foodies. The Mighty Jersey Tomato is now perfectly ripened and plentiful. It is an absolute thing of beauty, the sweetest reward of our late summer harvest. Hundreds of dynamic varieties grow exceptionally well in our fertile Garden State soil and are ready for your enjoyment.
At our restaurant at the Shore, we couldn’t wait for the NJ crop to be just right. When we saw farmer Lee’s old pickup truck pull in the driveway with the day’s supply, all we needed was the piping hot bread delivery to be right behind him. Nothing was better than tearing up a loaf of Formica’s bread, a little spread of mayonnaise, a couple slices of the red-ripe orbs with a pinch of salt and pepper.
Growing up in fertile Monmouth County, I still remember being in awe of the fresh, ripe tomatoes picked from the Delicious Orchards bounty towards the end of the summer. I got the same feeling last week, as I watched my youngest grandson pick out a beauty from his uncle’s crop and bite right in. The sun had warmed the fruit, so it was bursting with luscious moisture and flavor. We adored his passion and the look on his face as the seeds dripped down his chin. It was priceless. The intensity of Mother Nature’s artistry was on full display.
As a kid of the 60’s things weren’t always so promising. I was confused why the BLT sandwiches that my mom often made didn’t taste that good most of the year. Well, sometime in the 1950's, in response to demand from the large commercial farmers in California, Florida and Mexico - tomato scientists developed hybrids, new breeding and cultivation and techniques. These farms altered their shipping, and storage processes so that they could grow, ship and sell tomatoes in huge volumes across the country, all year, at a substantial profit. In Florida the tomatoes are picked green and gassed with ethylene to give them a redder glow before being shipped. In Mexico, some were allowed to ripen longer on the vine, but would then have to be refrigerated before they are were shipped, and that would damage the taste and nutrients. They were crap.
This was a big financial boon for some of the farming industry, albeit a disappointment for the gastronomic world. However, since we did buy them, they thought all was good. NO! Actually, the mealy and tasteless bombs were ruining our passion for the fruit. Our Garden State, which is much smaller, and the most densely populated state couldn’t compete with these behemoth commercial farmers. But what we do have is the best of the best. When the Jersey Fresh program launched in 1984, it enlightened us all on the benefit that we have to us, right here in our own backyard. Their grading standards are the highest. NJ farmers have created a niche for themselves and it was just up to us New Jersians to learn where and when to satisfy our yearly quest for the best - (I must confess, that even as a chef, it took me some time to get my seasonal “veggie-rythms” right). We locals just won’t settle for an offensive grainy mess, not during our tomato season!
Farm stands just west of my town like Cervenka and Donaldson Farms give me extra added reason to go out of my way when out and about right now. Just the smell of the rich soil of Hunterdon, Warren, Salem and Burlington makes me feel invigorated. It is no wonder people make fun of our State nickname if their only NJ experience has been just passing through, driving up the Turnpike. That’s OK, more goodies for us.
So, my friends, ‘tis the season to celebrate the Mighty Jersey Tomato! Support our local farmers, even if you’re growing your own. Remember you don’t have to own a restaurant to produce “farm-to-table."
Some fun facts:
"Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad." - Brian Driscoll
Jersey Fresh - Part 1: The Mighty Tomato
This a thrilling time of the year for local chefs and foodies. The Mighty Jersey Tomato is now perfectly ripened and plentiful. It is an absolute thing of beauty, the sweetest reward of our late summer harvest. Hundreds of dynamic varieties grow exceptionally well in our fertile Garden State soil and are ready for your enjoyment.
At our restaurant at the Shore, we couldn’t wait for the NJ crop to be just right. When we saw farmer Lee’s old pickup truck pull in the driveway with the day’s supply, all we needed was the piping hot bread delivery to be right behind him. Nothing was better than tearing up a loaf of Formica’s bread, a little spread of mayonnaise, a couple slices of the red-ripe orbs with a pinch of salt and pepper.
Growing up in fertile Monmouth County, I still remember being in awe of the fresh, ripe tomatoes picked from the Delicious Orchards bounty towards the end of the summer. I got the same feeling last week, as I watched my youngest grandson pick out a beauty from his uncle’s crop and bite right in. The sun had warmed the fruit, so it was bursting with luscious moisture and flavor. We adored his passion and the look on his face as the seeds dripped down his chin. It was priceless. The intensity of Mother Nature’s artistry was on full display.
As a kid of the 60’s things weren’t always so promising. I was confused why the BLT sandwiches that my mom often made didn’t taste that good most of the year. Well, sometime in the 1950's, in response to demand from the large commercial farmers in California, Florida and Mexico - tomato scientists developed hybrids, new breeding and cultivation and techniques. These farms altered their shipping, and storage processes so that they could grow, ship and sell tomatoes in huge volumes across the country, all year, at a substantial profit. In Florida the tomatoes are picked green and gassed with ethylene to give them a redder glow before being shipped. In Mexico, some were allowed to ripen longer on the vine, but would then have to be refrigerated before they are were shipped, and that would damage the taste and nutrients. They were crap.
This was a big financial boon for some of the farming industry, albeit a disappointment for the gastronomic world. However, since we did buy them, they thought all was good. NO! Actually, the mealy and tasteless bombs were ruining our passion for the fruit. Our Garden State, which is much smaller, and the most densely populated state couldn’t compete with these behemoth commercial farmers. But what we do have is the best of the best. When the Jersey Fresh program launched in 1984, it enlightened us all on the benefit that we have to us, right here in our own backyard. Their grading standards are the highest. NJ farmers have created a niche for themselves and it was just up to us New Jersians to learn where and when to satisfy our yearly quest for the best - (I must confess, that even as a chef, it took me some time to get my seasonal “veggie-rythms” right). We locals just won’t settle for an offensive grainy mess, not during our tomato season!
Farm stands just west of my town like Cervenka and Donaldson Farms give me extra added reason to go out of my way when out and about right now. Just the smell of the rich soil of Hunterdon, Warren, Salem and Burlington makes me feel invigorated. It is no wonder people make fun of our State nickname if their only NJ experience has been just passing through, driving up the Turnpike. That’s OK, more goodies for us.
So, my friends, ‘tis the season to celebrate the Mighty Jersey Tomato! Support our local farmers, even if you’re growing your own. Remember you don’t have to own a restaurant to produce “farm-to-table."
Some fun facts:
- The tomato is a fruit AND a vegetable
- Fruit being the scientific (botanical) definition
- Vegetable being its culinary term
- Thus, the reason for it being the NJ State Vegetable (blueberry is the fruit, of course)
- Don’t store in the fridge or even on a window shelf - just upright on the counter
- The overall production of fresh fruits and vegetables in NJ is over $350 million
- Rutgers University is keenly responsible for keeping our family of tomatoes on top
"Knowledge is knowing that a tomato is a fruit. Wisdom is knowing not to put it in a fruit salad." - Brian Driscoll
August 16 2021
I Can't Believe It's Not Butter (aka The Somerville Elks Return)
This past week was one for the ages. I was asked by some good friends at my Somerville Elks Lodge to come and volunteer to prepare a funeral repast meal for the family of a long-time member. I’ll save you all from all the gory details that led me to succumb to actually committing to return to my former kitchen and do even much more than that. Yes, I’ll now be spending my time bouncing from our “Not-Just-Soup” Kitchen and Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen, along with cooking for The Lodge. This “retirement thing” isn’t really working out quite how I envisioned it.
That being said, it didn’t take me long to see one of the things that was missing from the Elks Kitchen equation - BUTTER! Is there anything more splendid than butter? It seems they just weren’t using enough of it. There are very few soups or sauces that I don’t work butter into. I cook with it. I bake with it. What would veggies, mashed potatoes and popcorn be without it? I'm a huge fan of bread, but mostly so I can lather on a thick layer of Kerry Gold. There's a reason why slang for gold is "butter" - because, umm, yum!
Butter used to be a nutrition outlaw. Long ago, it got unfairly labeled as an unhealthy food - and the culinary travesty known as margarine was forced upon the world. Dark days indeed! The Great Depression and World War II also challenged America’s love affair with butter. The turmoil brought shortages and rationing, and dreadful margarine - made with vegetable oil and yellow food coloring - as a cheaper option for American families. At a time when the world was frightened of butter, one of my early influences, Julia Child (Mastering the Art of French Cooking) embraced the virtues of butter. More recently, butter has staged a comeback and its image has been mostly redeemed. But how much do you really know about this delightsome food?
Here's nine fascinating facts about butter.
So, you can keep your butter substitutes, because there is no replacement for the real thing. The only thing better than butter, is more butter.
“With butter... anything is good." - Julia Child
I Can't Believe It's Not Butter (aka The Somerville Elks Return)
This past week was one for the ages. I was asked by some good friends at my Somerville Elks Lodge to come and volunteer to prepare a funeral repast meal for the family of a long-time member. I’ll save you all from all the gory details that led me to succumb to actually committing to return to my former kitchen and do even much more than that. Yes, I’ll now be spending my time bouncing from our “Not-Just-Soup” Kitchen and Papa Jim’s Comfort Kitchen, along with cooking for The Lodge. This “retirement thing” isn’t really working out quite how I envisioned it.
That being said, it didn’t take me long to see one of the things that was missing from the Elks Kitchen equation - BUTTER! Is there anything more splendid than butter? It seems they just weren’t using enough of it. There are very few soups or sauces that I don’t work butter into. I cook with it. I bake with it. What would veggies, mashed potatoes and popcorn be without it? I'm a huge fan of bread, but mostly so I can lather on a thick layer of Kerry Gold. There's a reason why slang for gold is "butter" - because, umm, yum!
Butter used to be a nutrition outlaw. Long ago, it got unfairly labeled as an unhealthy food - and the culinary travesty known as margarine was forced upon the world. Dark days indeed! The Great Depression and World War II also challenged America’s love affair with butter. The turmoil brought shortages and rationing, and dreadful margarine - made with vegetable oil and yellow food coloring - as a cheaper option for American families. At a time when the world was frightened of butter, one of my early influences, Julia Child (Mastering the Art of French Cooking) embraced the virtues of butter. More recently, butter has staged a comeback and its image has been mostly redeemed. But how much do you really know about this delightsome food?
Here's nine fascinating facts about butter.
- It's healthier than you think. Butter can help you lose weight. Butter contains lecithin, a substance that helps in the proper assimilation and metabolism of cholesterol and other fat constituents. This makes you break down and use fats more efficiently, helping you actually lose weight. Butter has none of the artificial trans fats (associated with the "bad" cholesterol) you get in margarine. Butter is one of the most complex of all dietary fats, containing more than 400 different fatty acids - if it's from grass-fed cows' milk. It also has CLAs, and equal amounts of Omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. Butter is a source of Vitamin A, which is great for hair, eyes, and skin, as well as Vitamins E, D, and K. 2 tablespoons of butter have about 8 grams of fat. About 30 percent is monounsaturated fat, the same fat in olive oil.
- It takes 21 pints of milk to make a pound of butter. In all, about a third of the world’s milk production is devoted to making butter (maybe it does have a large carbon footprint?). Butter is made by agitating cream until the fats separate into butter and buttermilk. The buttermilk you get from the store is artificially thickened.
- The earliest evidence of butter dates back to 2000 years B.C. Archaeologists have found a limestone tablet that is around 4,500 years old that illustrates how our ancestors were making butter. However, some historians suppose that this spread was discovered even earlier. The first butter would have been from sheep or goat’s milk (even yak and water buffalo). Cows were not domesticated for another thousand years. As one legend has it, among the rolling hills of ancient Africa sometime around 8000 BC, a dusty traveler was making gastronomic history, quite by accident. Thirsty from a long, hot journey, the weary herdsman reached for the sheepskin bag of milk knotted to the back of his pack animal. But as he tilted his head to pour the warm liquid into his mouth, he was astonished to find that the sheep’s milk had curdled. The rough terrain and constant joggling of the milk had transformed it into butter – and surprisingly, it tasted heavenly.
- Échiré butter is the most expensive butter in the world. Handmade in a small pocket of western France – this butter is loved by chefs and served in many of the world’s most celebrated restaurants. It cost about $40 per pound (I still prefer Kerry Gold). Of course, the French love fancy butter - who’s surprised? In the 18th and 19th centuries, dairymaids created lavish butters and sold them in Paris for foodies from Europe and North America. One hot commodity was perfumed butter, made by layering unsalted butter with flowers. By the 1860s, butter had become so in demand in France that Emperor Napoleon III offered prize money for an inexpensive substitute to supplement France’s inadequate butter supplies. A French chemist claimed the prize with the invention of margarine in 1869. He should have met the guillotine.
- In Ireland, one of the most common archaeological finds are barrels of butter buried in bogs. Apparently, the butter was stored this way to preserve it and keep it safe from thieves. Butter was involved in some Celtic pagan practices - and in Ireland, it was believed that a witch could use magic to steal the neighbor’s “butter luck.” People had all sorts of practices for thwarting such supernatural calamities.
- Butter was so precious to the Norsemen that they were buried with large tubs full of the stuff to take with them into the afterlife.
- Grassland Dairy in Greenwood, Wisconsin produces 42,000 pounds of butter per hour using three continuous churns.
- Tibetan butter sculpture is an ancient practice where monks use butter to create intricate, colorful figures called “tormas” used in Buddhist rituals and as offerings to the deities.
- India is the largest producer of butter. Ghee, a kind of clarified butter, is an important ingredient in Indian cuisine. Ghee is mentioned in the Periplus of the Erythraen Sea as a typical trade article around the first century CE Arabian Sea, and Roman geographer Strabo describes it as a commodity of Arabia and Sudan.
So, you can keep your butter substitutes, because there is no replacement for the real thing. The only thing better than butter, is more butter.
“With butter... anything is good." - Julia Child
August 5 2021
In Bir Veritas (in beer there is truth)
Today (August 5th) is National IPA Day! So, here are some musings for you to sip on. Victory Brewery’s Hop Devil IPA has long-been a favorite with hopheads everywhere. Devilishly delicious, this American India Pale Ale packs the powerful punch of the aromatic whole flower American hops, supported by a rich German malt backbone. The flavor profile of this beer is complex, brash and resinly bitter. It is most engaging with fiery and bold foods as well as a worthy contrast to and richer, sweeter dishes. The crispy caramelization of grilled meats combined with spicy lacquered marinades and tangy condiments makes this ale a perfect pairing for a BBQ. Even better, you might want to sample some of the amazing smoked choices Victory Brewery has on their own brewpub’s barbeque menu. However, I have a few favorites of my own.
Spicy Pork Carnitas
I’m a big fan of braised meats - and spicy Mexican pulled pork is a slam-dunk. The hoppiness of this beer cries out for big brave foods. The cutting power of the bitterness cuts right through the fat of the pork butt (or shoulder) and isn’t scared of whatever heat intensity that you’ve chosen. This dish is easy to prepare at home and if you have some decent tortillas, it will become various meals for days. If your butt is too big (for your slow cooker) then slice off some of the fatty stuff and fry up some chicharróns (salty pork “rinds”) for a snack before dinner.
Fried Oysters
Can a delicate seafood dish hold up to a Chuck Norris- like beer? Well, it can if it’s either oily or fried. Now, I can’t get to N’awlins this week so I’m going to head down to Spikes Seafood market in Point Pleasant for some fresh local seafood. However, I’ll take a pass on the Garden State Fish (the unctuous bluefish) and pick myself out some shiny & briny oysters. My only problem is the “shuck & pluck”! As I shuck open these little splendours, I have to resist plucking them into my mouth before they hit the batter. The citrus nuance of the hops works with the lightly pungent saline and the sweet creamy taste of the barely cooked oyster comes through. A little truffle salt might work here.
Thüringer Rostbratwurst
Only a month away from Oktoberfest! I would be remiss to not include a selection honoring my wife’s German heritage. On a recent trip to Heidelberg, I had the pleasure to savour this peppery, lip-smacking street food at the downtown Marktplaz. Now, I know that German fare isn’t normally known for its spiciness, so if your sausages are a little bland, then just lather on some Tulkoff horseradish mustard and bottoms up.
Pepperidge Farm Milano Toffee Slices
I’m going to use a stretch on the (often-goofy) wine pairing logic that states that wine and foods that have been grown in the same soil are an excellent strategy for finding the perfect pairing. While, I’m not so sure how much I believe in that synergy, I am a little bemused by the fact that Victory beer is brewed on the site of a former Pepperidge Farm bakery. This thinner version of the classic Milano is a buttery, chocolate cookie, now crusted with toffee. You don’t have to wait for dessert - for all the reasons previously stated, this a seamless amuse-bouche for a fearless IPA.
Honey Roasted Macadamia Nuts
It is almost football season again and all tailgate snacks are back in play. These fattylicious nuts are so salty and sweet that they are a perfect match for caramel-ly malts. Get a little “hopped-up” on the Devil and down a can of Mauna Loa’s while rooting the G-Men onto... "VICTORY!"
Did I Mention Wagyu? Please refer to my previous musings. Slainté!
Victory Brewery’s Hop Devil IPA
COMPOSITION
Malts: Imported, German 2 row
Hops: American whole flowers
Alcohol by volume: 6.7% AVAILABILITY
Available year-round on draft and in bottles
In Bir Veritas (in beer there is truth)
Today (August 5th) is National IPA Day! So, here are some musings for you to sip on. Victory Brewery’s Hop Devil IPA has long-been a favorite with hopheads everywhere. Devilishly delicious, this American India Pale Ale packs the powerful punch of the aromatic whole flower American hops, supported by a rich German malt backbone. The flavor profile of this beer is complex, brash and resinly bitter. It is most engaging with fiery and bold foods as well as a worthy contrast to and richer, sweeter dishes. The crispy caramelization of grilled meats combined with spicy lacquered marinades and tangy condiments makes this ale a perfect pairing for a BBQ. Even better, you might want to sample some of the amazing smoked choices Victory Brewery has on their own brewpub’s barbeque menu. However, I have a few favorites of my own.
Spicy Pork Carnitas
I’m a big fan of braised meats - and spicy Mexican pulled pork is a slam-dunk. The hoppiness of this beer cries out for big brave foods. The cutting power of the bitterness cuts right through the fat of the pork butt (or shoulder) and isn’t scared of whatever heat intensity that you’ve chosen. This dish is easy to prepare at home and if you have some decent tortillas, it will become various meals for days. If your butt is too big (for your slow cooker) then slice off some of the fatty stuff and fry up some chicharróns (salty pork “rinds”) for a snack before dinner.
Fried Oysters
Can a delicate seafood dish hold up to a Chuck Norris- like beer? Well, it can if it’s either oily or fried. Now, I can’t get to N’awlins this week so I’m going to head down to Spikes Seafood market in Point Pleasant for some fresh local seafood. However, I’ll take a pass on the Garden State Fish (the unctuous bluefish) and pick myself out some shiny & briny oysters. My only problem is the “shuck & pluck”! As I shuck open these little splendours, I have to resist plucking them into my mouth before they hit the batter. The citrus nuance of the hops works with the lightly pungent saline and the sweet creamy taste of the barely cooked oyster comes through. A little truffle salt might work here.
Thüringer Rostbratwurst
Only a month away from Oktoberfest! I would be remiss to not include a selection honoring my wife’s German heritage. On a recent trip to Heidelberg, I had the pleasure to savour this peppery, lip-smacking street food at the downtown Marktplaz. Now, I know that German fare isn’t normally known for its spiciness, so if your sausages are a little bland, then just lather on some Tulkoff horseradish mustard and bottoms up.
Pepperidge Farm Milano Toffee Slices
I’m going to use a stretch on the (often-goofy) wine pairing logic that states that wine and foods that have been grown in the same soil are an excellent strategy for finding the perfect pairing. While, I’m not so sure how much I believe in that synergy, I am a little bemused by the fact that Victory beer is brewed on the site of a former Pepperidge Farm bakery. This thinner version of the classic Milano is a buttery, chocolate cookie, now crusted with toffee. You don’t have to wait for dessert - for all the reasons previously stated, this a seamless amuse-bouche for a fearless IPA.
Honey Roasted Macadamia Nuts
It is almost football season again and all tailgate snacks are back in play. These fattylicious nuts are so salty and sweet that they are a perfect match for caramel-ly malts. Get a little “hopped-up” on the Devil and down a can of Mauna Loa’s while rooting the G-Men onto... "VICTORY!"
Did I Mention Wagyu? Please refer to my previous musings. Slainté!
Victory Brewery’s Hop Devil IPA
COMPOSITION
Malts: Imported, German 2 row
Hops: American whole flowers
Alcohol by volume: 6.7% AVAILABILITY
Available year-round on draft and in bottles
August 1 2021
Where Did All the Kids Go?
This past Saturday at 5:16 am, another beautiful granddaughter was born into our family. Although my wife and I have four children (and now 6 grandchildren!), every single time I have held our newborn child for the first time I feel woefully unprepared. Nothing can compare with the honor and joy of having been given this beautiful gift. I was mostly speechless and swallowing hard. I was overwhelmed by the love in the room and in awe of the strength of my daughter-in-law who carried this bundle of joy for nine months.
After leaving the hospital the rest of the day seemed quite surreal. Pondering the ultimate question that generations of prospective parents always asked of themselves about bringing a child into our damaged world and leaving them our mess to clean up. Thoughts bounced around in my monkey-mind about what kind of life (and career) would be accessible to our new addition. But no, little Josephine was (as were my previous five grandkids) born into a loving family that will teach her and protect her as she begins to find her way in this world. That is our most important job.
Upon arriving home, reality sunk back in - having a mediocre dinner from yet another understaffed restaurant. Every day I receive calls from my restaurateur friends pleading for help finding employees to fill their open jobs. Is there a labor shortage? Oh yeah there is, and it is destroying the restaurant industry just as much as the pandemic has. My generation tends to blame the Millennials and Gen Z’ers for being lazy and sitting home playing video games until their unemployment and stimulus runs out. It’s not that simple and I just don’t see it quite that way. I remember how my irate Post-War generation chefs would rail against us Baby Boomers for how useless they thought we were. My children are Millennials. Lazy? I think not. Their rite-of-passage was learning how to fold dining room napkins at the same time they were learning to tie shoelaces.
So what is the problem? Here is what I believe – a person is taught to have great work ethic, mostly, at first, by their family’s example and expectations. Then at school and work where friends, employers and coworkers who exhibit a worthy work ethic are likely to get a matching effort. The thing us older folks have to remember is that kids no longer have to fight for the chance at a minimum wage job, as we did as a young teenager. Most don’t have to. Have we spoiled them with cars and iPhones? Maybe, but isn’t that considered progress? Didn’t our parents moan to us about how much easier we had it than they did? These are the progressive effects of the human condition - it’s evolution.
The current labor crisis has hurt most American industries. This is systemic and will not be easily fixed without wholesale reflection on how we operate as a society (including our immigration strategy). I believe we need to move past the thought that “nobody wants to work anymore” and focus on the causes that got us in this predicament. Is the quick fix to send government money to every individual in the country a good idea? Probably not. Should we throw money at potential employees for just filling out an application and then showing up for day one? Hell no!
Is stereotyping a whole generation of young adults as lackadaisical the answer? It doesn’t help the problem. The environment where Millennial and Gen Z youth have come of age differs from previous generations. In the restaurant industry we accepted low wages, long hours, harassing bosses and underappreciation. I whole-heartedly believe that if we change that environment and properly set well-defined expectations, then young people will respond optimistically - enjoying a feeling of accomplishment. We elders need to lead by example - with empathy. Sure, proper wages are important - but money isn’t everything that younger people expect out of life. Look, we all knew this was going to happen long ago - remember Mazlow’s hierarchy of needs (circa 1943)?
So, what can my little Josie and the rest of my Gen-Alpha grandkids expect from us? Well, it’s a brave new world for restaurateurs. We are all going through a dramatic change that will be forever. We need to think about the new future. But we have to fix things before we can pass it on. We must reflect on what’s happened and assess, innovate and plan for what new generation restaurants will become. We must build back our teams with enthusiasm and energy. Only then will they return.
One of the tenets of the Restaurant World (particularly in the U.S.A.) is our caring nature. We care about others who are suffering and need help. People look to us for assistance when their hope is weakened. We have given freely of ourselves for generations – this is one of our most admirable traits - it is was how the rest of the world viewed Americans. But first things first. I truly believe that we, as an industry, must take care of our own family first and foremost. Get the band back together, but better. It’s only then that we can expect to warmly and generously share our hospitality with others.
“Put on your own oxygen mask first before assisting others.” - said 100,000 times a day globally
Where Did All the Kids Go?
This past Saturday at 5:16 am, another beautiful granddaughter was born into our family. Although my wife and I have four children (and now 6 grandchildren!), every single time I have held our newborn child for the first time I feel woefully unprepared. Nothing can compare with the honor and joy of having been given this beautiful gift. I was mostly speechless and swallowing hard. I was overwhelmed by the love in the room and in awe of the strength of my daughter-in-law who carried this bundle of joy for nine months.
After leaving the hospital the rest of the day seemed quite surreal. Pondering the ultimate question that generations of prospective parents always asked of themselves about bringing a child into our damaged world and leaving them our mess to clean up. Thoughts bounced around in my monkey-mind about what kind of life (and career) would be accessible to our new addition. But no, little Josephine was (as were my previous five grandkids) born into a loving family that will teach her and protect her as she begins to find her way in this world. That is our most important job.
Upon arriving home, reality sunk back in - having a mediocre dinner from yet another understaffed restaurant. Every day I receive calls from my restaurateur friends pleading for help finding employees to fill their open jobs. Is there a labor shortage? Oh yeah there is, and it is destroying the restaurant industry just as much as the pandemic has. My generation tends to blame the Millennials and Gen Z’ers for being lazy and sitting home playing video games until their unemployment and stimulus runs out. It’s not that simple and I just don’t see it quite that way. I remember how my irate Post-War generation chefs would rail against us Baby Boomers for how useless they thought we were. My children are Millennials. Lazy? I think not. Their rite-of-passage was learning how to fold dining room napkins at the same time they were learning to tie shoelaces.
So what is the problem? Here is what I believe – a person is taught to have great work ethic, mostly, at first, by their family’s example and expectations. Then at school and work where friends, employers and coworkers who exhibit a worthy work ethic are likely to get a matching effort. The thing us older folks have to remember is that kids no longer have to fight for the chance at a minimum wage job, as we did as a young teenager. Most don’t have to. Have we spoiled them with cars and iPhones? Maybe, but isn’t that considered progress? Didn’t our parents moan to us about how much easier we had it than they did? These are the progressive effects of the human condition - it’s evolution.
The current labor crisis has hurt most American industries. This is systemic and will not be easily fixed without wholesale reflection on how we operate as a society (including our immigration strategy). I believe we need to move past the thought that “nobody wants to work anymore” and focus on the causes that got us in this predicament. Is the quick fix to send government money to every individual in the country a good idea? Probably not. Should we throw money at potential employees for just filling out an application and then showing up for day one? Hell no!
Is stereotyping a whole generation of young adults as lackadaisical the answer? It doesn’t help the problem. The environment where Millennial and Gen Z youth have come of age differs from previous generations. In the restaurant industry we accepted low wages, long hours, harassing bosses and underappreciation. I whole-heartedly believe that if we change that environment and properly set well-defined expectations, then young people will respond optimistically - enjoying a feeling of accomplishment. We elders need to lead by example - with empathy. Sure, proper wages are important - but money isn’t everything that younger people expect out of life. Look, we all knew this was going to happen long ago - remember Mazlow’s hierarchy of needs (circa 1943)?
So, what can my little Josie and the rest of my Gen-Alpha grandkids expect from us? Well, it’s a brave new world for restaurateurs. We are all going through a dramatic change that will be forever. We need to think about the new future. But we have to fix things before we can pass it on. We must reflect on what’s happened and assess, innovate and plan for what new generation restaurants will become. We must build back our teams with enthusiasm and energy. Only then will they return.
One of the tenets of the Restaurant World (particularly in the U.S.A.) is our caring nature. We care about others who are suffering and need help. People look to us for assistance when their hope is weakened. We have given freely of ourselves for generations – this is one of our most admirable traits - it is was how the rest of the world viewed Americans. But first things first. I truly believe that we, as an industry, must take care of our own family first and foremost. Get the band back together, but better. It’s only then that we can expect to warmly and generously share our hospitality with others.
“Put on your own oxygen mask first before assisting others.” - said 100,000 times a day globally
PAPA JIM + OMI WITH THEIR GRANDKIDS
RILEY, AIDEN, JAMES (AKA JAMIE), ELLA, ASHLYNN
WITH FRED, SARA + BABY JOSEPHINE
RILEY, AIDEN, JAMES (AKA JAMIE), ELLA, ASHLYNN
WITH FRED, SARA + BABY JOSEPHINE
July 29 2021
KOBE OR NOT KOBE - THAT IS THE QUESTION!
Papa’s Top Ten
You might have noticed by now my affinity for Japanese Kobe and American Wagyu Beef. Kobe Beef is the world’s hottest meat in today’s marketplace - but also misunderstood, extremely rare and cloaked in mystery. American Wagyu is a cross-bred cow that is often controversial in the over-arching reach used in marketing it as “Kobe." Nonetheless, it is what I use for many dishes and it is quite tasty. Its flavor, texture and tenderness are unparalleled for beef connoisseurs. So here are my top ten things you need to know about Kobe Beef.
1. ALL KOBE IS WAGYU BUT NOT ALL WAGYU IS KOBE
Kobe, in short, is a variety of Wagyu. Wagyu, loosely translated, means “Japanese cattle.” So Wagyu refers to any cattle that is bred in Japan or the Japanese-style. Kobe Beef is comprised of a very particular strain of Wagyu called Tajima-Gyu that is raised to strict standards in the prefecture of Hyogo (Hyogo’s capital city is Kobe, thus the name). To be considered Kobe, the cattle and the beef that comes from them have to meet some very specific requirements (and I mean specific). Only the best meat will be certified Kobe, and it will all be marked with an official seal and identification number that allows someone to track a piece of meat back to the animal it came from! “Kobe Style” branded beef is not the same. Each animal’s nose print, as unique as the human fingerprint, is imprinted on the packaged meat from that animal for “stable to table” accountability.
2. KOBE BEEF IS ACTUALLY EXTREMELY RARE IN THE U.S.
In fact, any beef from Japan is a fairly recent sensation, since four-legged animals were rarely eaten in Japan before WWII. Until recently, export of Kobe Beef was banned, meaning the only place you could try it was in Japan. Since the ban was lifted in 2012, Kobe can be found in some top restaurants around the world, but it's still not common. Each year, only a few thousand animals are certified Kobe and less than 10% is exported out of Japan, making it very rare. Wagyu was declared a national treasure of Japan.
3. THERE ARE ONLY ABOUT 33 RESTAURANTS IN THE US PERMITTED TO SERVE REAL KOBE BEEF
Some famous restaurants have been chef-shamed by marketing Kobe on the menu when it was actually a breed of American Wagyu. Even after significant revisions to menus across the country and restaurateurs being caught red-handed for misinformation, beef consumers still have trouble knowing if a restaurant (or store) is telling the truth. So always check the official list before spending a large amount on anything dubbed "Kobe Beef."
4. KOBE IS THE DOM PERIGNON TO AMERICAN WAGYU'S KORBEL
A good comparison to the difference between American Wagyu and Japanese Kobe is the relation of Champagne to Sparkling Wine. Unless it's made from local grapes, using a specific method and in the Champagne region of France, it must be called Sparkling Wine. It's the same with Wagyu and Kobe!
Yes, I do know that there is 100-year loophole in the wine laws that allow some Cali wines to speciously use the name champagne.
5. WAGYU IS A MURKY ISSUE
American Wagyu beef is so delicious, what’s the fuss?! Sure, it is a hybrid beef that is often called “Wangus” because of the crossbreeding of Wagyu and Aberdeen Angus. However, both the crossbred and the full-blood Wagyu, have superior beef than traditional Angus. While around 3% of Angus receives a Prime Grade, about 90% of beef that is influenced by Wagyu (crossbred) gets a Prime Grade. Even better, when looking at the wonderful Wagyu, it can have as much as five times the marbling as traditional US Prime beef. AND... the Wagyu-influenced beef is far healthier compared to the conventional beef competition. It is low in cholesterol, higher in monounsaturated fats and low in saturated fats. While there are certainly issues with misrepresenting the “Wangus” as a Kobe, you will still be in for an amazing delicacy that only Wagyu beef can bring you.
6. WAGYU CATTLE ARE FEED BEER AND SAKE
Beer and sake are sometimes given to cattle, but only to stimulate appetite during the hot and humid summer months when feed intake typically decreases. However, this special treatment is not always standard practice by Japanese farmers. Wagyu cattle probably eat better than most of us in order to help the remarkable marbling, but don’t expect to see inebriated cows bouncing around the hillside.
7. THE TENDER-LOVING FARMERS MASSAGE THEIR CATTLE
The farmers of Wagyu cattle in Japan take farming to a whole new level. To get a perfect quality of Wagyu beef, this black cattle is treated like a real king. First, the farm is specially situated in a cool mountainous terrain and far from any crowds to create a stress-free environment for the cows. The temperature inside the cage is always well-watched to avoid any extreme heat or cold changes. The cattle listen to classical musical as they are caressed and even given acupuncture and relaxation massage by the farmer. This zen-like care is in honor of the Japanese way of life.
8. WAGYU BEEF LITERALLY MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH
Wagyu beef has a very low melting point. In face, it is lower than the human body temperature. So, yes, these luscious mono-saturated fats really do melt in your mouth!
9. IT COOKS DIFFERENTLY
Because of the tender marbling and buttery fat, steaks can be easily over-cooked on a flaming grill. Even though I usually like my steaks medium-rare, I like to cook mine in a cast iron skillet until about medium for maximum flavor.
10. KOBE BRYANT REALLY DID SUE KOBE, JAPAN
Yes, strange but true. The late Hall of Fame baller (who was named after the beef) really did sue the entire city of Kobe. It was a futile attempt to claim the naming rights because he felt the popularity of the beef was due in large part to his fame with the Lakers. In respect to the departed, I have no comment.
"My favorite animal is steak." - Fran Lebowitz
KOBE OR NOT KOBE - THAT IS THE QUESTION!
Papa’s Top Ten
You might have noticed by now my affinity for Japanese Kobe and American Wagyu Beef. Kobe Beef is the world’s hottest meat in today’s marketplace - but also misunderstood, extremely rare and cloaked in mystery. American Wagyu is a cross-bred cow that is often controversial in the over-arching reach used in marketing it as “Kobe." Nonetheless, it is what I use for many dishes and it is quite tasty. Its flavor, texture and tenderness are unparalleled for beef connoisseurs. So here are my top ten things you need to know about Kobe Beef.
1. ALL KOBE IS WAGYU BUT NOT ALL WAGYU IS KOBE
Kobe, in short, is a variety of Wagyu. Wagyu, loosely translated, means “Japanese cattle.” So Wagyu refers to any cattle that is bred in Japan or the Japanese-style. Kobe Beef is comprised of a very particular strain of Wagyu called Tajima-Gyu that is raised to strict standards in the prefecture of Hyogo (Hyogo’s capital city is Kobe, thus the name). To be considered Kobe, the cattle and the beef that comes from them have to meet some very specific requirements (and I mean specific). Only the best meat will be certified Kobe, and it will all be marked with an official seal and identification number that allows someone to track a piece of meat back to the animal it came from! “Kobe Style” branded beef is not the same. Each animal’s nose print, as unique as the human fingerprint, is imprinted on the packaged meat from that animal for “stable to table” accountability.
2. KOBE BEEF IS ACTUALLY EXTREMELY RARE IN THE U.S.
In fact, any beef from Japan is a fairly recent sensation, since four-legged animals were rarely eaten in Japan before WWII. Until recently, export of Kobe Beef was banned, meaning the only place you could try it was in Japan. Since the ban was lifted in 2012, Kobe can be found in some top restaurants around the world, but it's still not common. Each year, only a few thousand animals are certified Kobe and less than 10% is exported out of Japan, making it very rare. Wagyu was declared a national treasure of Japan.
3. THERE ARE ONLY ABOUT 33 RESTAURANTS IN THE US PERMITTED TO SERVE REAL KOBE BEEF
Some famous restaurants have been chef-shamed by marketing Kobe on the menu when it was actually a breed of American Wagyu. Even after significant revisions to menus across the country and restaurateurs being caught red-handed for misinformation, beef consumers still have trouble knowing if a restaurant (or store) is telling the truth. So always check the official list before spending a large amount on anything dubbed "Kobe Beef."
4. KOBE IS THE DOM PERIGNON TO AMERICAN WAGYU'S KORBEL
A good comparison to the difference between American Wagyu and Japanese Kobe is the relation of Champagne to Sparkling Wine. Unless it's made from local grapes, using a specific method and in the Champagne region of France, it must be called Sparkling Wine. It's the same with Wagyu and Kobe!
Yes, I do know that there is 100-year loophole in the wine laws that allow some Cali wines to speciously use the name champagne.
5. WAGYU IS A MURKY ISSUE
American Wagyu beef is so delicious, what’s the fuss?! Sure, it is a hybrid beef that is often called “Wangus” because of the crossbreeding of Wagyu and Aberdeen Angus. However, both the crossbred and the full-blood Wagyu, have superior beef than traditional Angus. While around 3% of Angus receives a Prime Grade, about 90% of beef that is influenced by Wagyu (crossbred) gets a Prime Grade. Even better, when looking at the wonderful Wagyu, it can have as much as five times the marbling as traditional US Prime beef. AND... the Wagyu-influenced beef is far healthier compared to the conventional beef competition. It is low in cholesterol, higher in monounsaturated fats and low in saturated fats. While there are certainly issues with misrepresenting the “Wangus” as a Kobe, you will still be in for an amazing delicacy that only Wagyu beef can bring you.
6. WAGYU CATTLE ARE FEED BEER AND SAKE
Beer and sake are sometimes given to cattle, but only to stimulate appetite during the hot and humid summer months when feed intake typically decreases. However, this special treatment is not always standard practice by Japanese farmers. Wagyu cattle probably eat better than most of us in order to help the remarkable marbling, but don’t expect to see inebriated cows bouncing around the hillside.
7. THE TENDER-LOVING FARMERS MASSAGE THEIR CATTLE
The farmers of Wagyu cattle in Japan take farming to a whole new level. To get a perfect quality of Wagyu beef, this black cattle is treated like a real king. First, the farm is specially situated in a cool mountainous terrain and far from any crowds to create a stress-free environment for the cows. The temperature inside the cage is always well-watched to avoid any extreme heat or cold changes. The cattle listen to classical musical as they are caressed and even given acupuncture and relaxation massage by the farmer. This zen-like care is in honor of the Japanese way of life.
8. WAGYU BEEF LITERALLY MELTS IN YOUR MOUTH
Wagyu beef has a very low melting point. In face, it is lower than the human body temperature. So, yes, these luscious mono-saturated fats really do melt in your mouth!
9. IT COOKS DIFFERENTLY
Because of the tender marbling and buttery fat, steaks can be easily over-cooked on a flaming grill. Even though I usually like my steaks medium-rare, I like to cook mine in a cast iron skillet until about medium for maximum flavor.
10. KOBE BRYANT REALLY DID SUE KOBE, JAPAN
Yes, strange but true. The late Hall of Fame baller (who was named after the beef) really did sue the entire city of Kobe. It was a futile attempt to claim the naming rights because he felt the popularity of the beef was due in large part to his fame with the Lakers. In respect to the departed, I have no comment.
"My favorite animal is steak." - Fran Lebowitz
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July 22 2021
Why I Cook
Last week I had the good fortune to be able to take another wondrous vacation with my amazing family. Yearly we rent a large house, either in the mountains or at the shore, so that we can all relax and enjoy each other’s company. Over the years, as our family has grown, the activities change, as the focus becomes more on the grandchildren. However, the one constant that is always a warm comfort, are the mealtimes. My children, who are fantastic cooks in their own right, have begun to gently nudge me out of the kitchen (somewhat). I am always so excited to see what menu they’ve each planned for the day. I try not to get in their way, even if I’m a little sad that they really don’t need my help. There is nothing better in this world, to me, than sharing a meal with those you love. It is our common bond, a gracious communion. Anthony Bourdain once said that cooking for someone is one of the most personal things that you can do for another. I couldn’t agree more.
The day before we left, I took some time away from my soup kitchen to volunteer to cook for Jack's Kids. Their annual softball tournament is a massive fundraiser for families dealing with serious illnesses to their precious children. Every year I feel so humbled by being asked to work in the kitchen with an amazing team of like-minded volunteers with a common goal. These consummate humanitarians represent, to me, the most vivid reason why I have truly loved working in the food business for almost five decades and at the same time, getting to give back to those in need.
It’s been well over a year since Covid-19 hit and my career, as it was, ended. It didn’t take long to realize what was next. Long ago I was given a gift. I never thought of my career as a job, but a calling. Every morning I wake up with a renewed passion to do it all over again. And do it better, despite what might have happened the day before. Every day I just can’t wait to get in the kitchen, so the answer was easy: let’s get cooking!
What was I going to do with all the food I had on hand? It was the day before St. Patrick’s Day and the coolers were packed! Well, we’re going to give it all away, of course. But then what? As it turned out the whole industry was in the same boat. Other restaurateurs - no customers, but full of supplies. Our broadline distributers - huge inventories soon to expire. Thus, began the birth of the (Not Just) Soup Kitchen.
Initially I thought that there wasn’t much of a need in our area. We live in a fairly affluent town, in a very well-off county. I figured we would maybe feed a few needy people who had just been furloughed from their jobs. How long could this crisis possibly last? How wrong I was. As I began to work with the local charities, it was clear to me that even in the most prosperous towns and cities there are families suffering through soul-crushing food insecurity.
Then things really got bleak. The supply chain broke. The images on tv of millions of gallons of milk being dumped down the drain and undeliverable produce rotting in huge piles was breaking my heart. The local food banks started to suffer, as well. Food poverty is fundamentally a money problem, not a food shortage problem. As this crisis stretched out, the otherwise stable incomes were pushed below the poverty line and unable to afford an adequate diet. People were too embarrassed to ask for help.
As the holidays approached, I was working with the local charities to put together food baskets so families would have the supplies to make their Thanksgiving dinner. I have done this for years, but it wasn’t until now that I realized how insensitive this was. In giving someone a frozen turkey and a bag of potatoes, we were assuming that they knew how to cook it and also and that they have the means to acquire to rest of the ingredients to complete the meal. So, I said to a friend, hold on, I have an idea. I’ll cook the meal completely and then you deliver it all finished. All they have to do is heat it up. Done.
Ever since then, this has been the blueprint for our charity. The Branchburg Rotary and Bound Brook Presbyterian Church are an amazing group of altruistic people who tirelessly work with the food banks and big box stores and supermarkets gathering food before they expire. The fruits, breads and dried goods get redistributed right away. The perishable vegetables and proteins come to our kitchen and I prepare them to be delivered - ready-to-eat.
Charity, to me, is not just about helping the needy. Charity is a chance one gets to pay our good fortune forward. It’s a chance to help another person put a smile back on his or her face. It’s a chance we get to help someone else find a reason to fight for tomorrow. The restaurant business has been extraordinarily good to me and it is just knowing how lucky I am to still be able to do what I love yet focused on a bigger purpose for which there is no monetary value.
To my culinary colleagues: Let us never forget how fortunate we are to have a needed skill that lets us help others. Let us always remember that giving of ourselves is an essential part of being a chef. Never put aside our responsibility to cook, teach and share what we know with others. May we never lose sight of how blessed we are to live in America, with all of its flaws. Our country has always been and must continue to be a shining light of hope for those in need.
Thank you to all who cook for others. You may not see all the faces or know how many lives you have changed, but I can assure you, you’ve certainly changed your own.
"Hunger is something no one should struggle with or be judged for" – Feeding America
Why I Cook
Last week I had the good fortune to be able to take another wondrous vacation with my amazing family. Yearly we rent a large house, either in the mountains or at the shore, so that we can all relax and enjoy each other’s company. Over the years, as our family has grown, the activities change, as the focus becomes more on the grandchildren. However, the one constant that is always a warm comfort, are the mealtimes. My children, who are fantastic cooks in their own right, have begun to gently nudge me out of the kitchen (somewhat). I am always so excited to see what menu they’ve each planned for the day. I try not to get in their way, even if I’m a little sad that they really don’t need my help. There is nothing better in this world, to me, than sharing a meal with those you love. It is our common bond, a gracious communion. Anthony Bourdain once said that cooking for someone is one of the most personal things that you can do for another. I couldn’t agree more.
The day before we left, I took some time away from my soup kitchen to volunteer to cook for Jack's Kids. Their annual softball tournament is a massive fundraiser for families dealing with serious illnesses to their precious children. Every year I feel so humbled by being asked to work in the kitchen with an amazing team of like-minded volunteers with a common goal. These consummate humanitarians represent, to me, the most vivid reason why I have truly loved working in the food business for almost five decades and at the same time, getting to give back to those in need.
It’s been well over a year since Covid-19 hit and my career, as it was, ended. It didn’t take long to realize what was next. Long ago I was given a gift. I never thought of my career as a job, but a calling. Every morning I wake up with a renewed passion to do it all over again. And do it better, despite what might have happened the day before. Every day I just can’t wait to get in the kitchen, so the answer was easy: let’s get cooking!
What was I going to do with all the food I had on hand? It was the day before St. Patrick’s Day and the coolers were packed! Well, we’re going to give it all away, of course. But then what? As it turned out the whole industry was in the same boat. Other restaurateurs - no customers, but full of supplies. Our broadline distributers - huge inventories soon to expire. Thus, began the birth of the (Not Just) Soup Kitchen.
Initially I thought that there wasn’t much of a need in our area. We live in a fairly affluent town, in a very well-off county. I figured we would maybe feed a few needy people who had just been furloughed from their jobs. How long could this crisis possibly last? How wrong I was. As I began to work with the local charities, it was clear to me that even in the most prosperous towns and cities there are families suffering through soul-crushing food insecurity.
Then things really got bleak. The supply chain broke. The images on tv of millions of gallons of milk being dumped down the drain and undeliverable produce rotting in huge piles was breaking my heart. The local food banks started to suffer, as well. Food poverty is fundamentally a money problem, not a food shortage problem. As this crisis stretched out, the otherwise stable incomes were pushed below the poverty line and unable to afford an adequate diet. People were too embarrassed to ask for help.
As the holidays approached, I was working with the local charities to put together food baskets so families would have the supplies to make their Thanksgiving dinner. I have done this for years, but it wasn’t until now that I realized how insensitive this was. In giving someone a frozen turkey and a bag of potatoes, we were assuming that they knew how to cook it and also and that they have the means to acquire to rest of the ingredients to complete the meal. So, I said to a friend, hold on, I have an idea. I’ll cook the meal completely and then you deliver it all finished. All they have to do is heat it up. Done.
Ever since then, this has been the blueprint for our charity. The Branchburg Rotary and Bound Brook Presbyterian Church are an amazing group of altruistic people who tirelessly work with the food banks and big box stores and supermarkets gathering food before they expire. The fruits, breads and dried goods get redistributed right away. The perishable vegetables and proteins come to our kitchen and I prepare them to be delivered - ready-to-eat.
Charity, to me, is not just about helping the needy. Charity is a chance one gets to pay our good fortune forward. It’s a chance to help another person put a smile back on his or her face. It’s a chance we get to help someone else find a reason to fight for tomorrow. The restaurant business has been extraordinarily good to me and it is just knowing how lucky I am to still be able to do what I love yet focused on a bigger purpose for which there is no monetary value.
To my culinary colleagues: Let us never forget how fortunate we are to have a needed skill that lets us help others. Let us always remember that giving of ourselves is an essential part of being a chef. Never put aside our responsibility to cook, teach and share what we know with others. May we never lose sight of how blessed we are to live in America, with all of its flaws. Our country has always been and must continue to be a shining light of hope for those in need.
Thank you to all who cook for others. You may not see all the faces or know how many lives you have changed, but I can assure you, you’ve certainly changed your own.
"Hunger is something no one should struggle with or be judged for" – Feeding America
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July 4 2021
Happy 4th of July - A Chef's Tale
Growing up in one of the original 13 colonies, the 4th of July was always a special time at our NJ home. My sister, Sharon, and I share our birthdays the same week as our country - so as a youngster, the 4th was always a multi-purpose party. Our backyard barbecue (not to be confused with BBQ) had all the classics - grilled burgers and dogs, potato salad, baked beans, deviled eggs and strawberry shortcake. After the obligatory shared cake and candles, we would head down Route 9 to the fireworks at the Freehold Raceway. If we were lucky enough to get a parking spot at Jersey Freeze, soft-serve ice cream was imminent.
Later, as a Chef, Independence Day took on a different meaning… work. Most of my career was spent in the hot kitchens of the Jersey Shore and the 4th was when things really started to heat up. Memorial Day is just a false start to summer and June isn’t usually much better. The big bucks are made from July 4th to Labor Day. At our restaurant in Ocean City that night, we would rush to get the last meals out before gathering on our patio to watch the pyrotechnics over the ocean.
It wasn’t until recent years that we began to enjoy a slice of American Independence pie at such iconic celebratory settings as Washington DC, Philadelphia (no turtle soup anymore), The Thousand Islands in Newport RI, and a most memorable whole-town Lobster Boil in Bar Harbor ME.
However, the most unforgettable location was in, of all places, Killarney, Ireland. Denise and I were a few days into a two-week, self-guided tour of The Emerald Isle. After an amazing day, leaving Kenmare and rambling around the stunning coast of the Ring of Kerry, we landed at the Killarney Park Hotel. Upon check-in we were a little surprised to see the place fully decorated in the Stars and Stripes. Once we hit our first pub, our bartender informed us of the night’s festivities - a full-blown Independence Day Parade. This was a little shocking to me. Why would another country be celebrating America’s independence? Is it because we both fought for our freedom from the U.K. (albeit a century-plus apart)?
Nope, it is actually because… they like us! Particularly, they like us to come visit. American tourism in Ireland is huge business. Ten times more citizens of the U.S. identify as having Irish heritage, than there are actual Irish residents. Their “Tidy Towns” competition (Killarney was a winner) is directed for the purpose of attracting visitors to their charming cities and villages all over the country.
So, the transformation of downtown Killarney into Main Street U.S.A. was quite a spectacle. The carnival atmosphere was complete with marching bands, Disney characters, a wild west troupe and a stilted Uncle Sam.
Oh yeah, and the FOOD! Don’t let anyone tell that Irish food is bland, boring and over-cooked. Not true. They have some of the best seafood anywhere in the world. The Irish Breakfast? We’ll talk about that soon. That night we bounced around to several pubs, dining on oysters, mussels, cured salmon, fish and chips, boxty, an assortment of savory pies and maybe a few pints. This was also the first time (but not the last) that I got to indulge in Murphy’s Ice Cream. The exquisite dairy that comes from the grass-fed Kerry cows is a mystery to me. Rumor has it that the leftover mash from the Jameson distillery in Middleton makes into the feed bag. Happiest cows in the world!
This might sound like a lot of culinary indulgence for one night, but no, that was every night, in every town, in Ireland. Yes, you do have to pace yourself because the sun doesn’t go down in the summer till around 11pm. If you don’t take your time, you’ll miss the fireworks!
Happy Independence Day, to all! See you later this week for “Free Lobster Bisque Day.”
"Bless us with good food, the gift of gab and hearty laughter. May the love and joy we share, be with us ever after!" - Irish Kitchen Prayer
Happy 4th of July - A Chef's Tale
Growing up in one of the original 13 colonies, the 4th of July was always a special time at our NJ home. My sister, Sharon, and I share our birthdays the same week as our country - so as a youngster, the 4th was always a multi-purpose party. Our backyard barbecue (not to be confused with BBQ) had all the classics - grilled burgers and dogs, potato salad, baked beans, deviled eggs and strawberry shortcake. After the obligatory shared cake and candles, we would head down Route 9 to the fireworks at the Freehold Raceway. If we were lucky enough to get a parking spot at Jersey Freeze, soft-serve ice cream was imminent.
Later, as a Chef, Independence Day took on a different meaning… work. Most of my career was spent in the hot kitchens of the Jersey Shore and the 4th was when things really started to heat up. Memorial Day is just a false start to summer and June isn’t usually much better. The big bucks are made from July 4th to Labor Day. At our restaurant in Ocean City that night, we would rush to get the last meals out before gathering on our patio to watch the pyrotechnics over the ocean.
It wasn’t until recent years that we began to enjoy a slice of American Independence pie at such iconic celebratory settings as Washington DC, Philadelphia (no turtle soup anymore), The Thousand Islands in Newport RI, and a most memorable whole-town Lobster Boil in Bar Harbor ME.
However, the most unforgettable location was in, of all places, Killarney, Ireland. Denise and I were a few days into a two-week, self-guided tour of The Emerald Isle. After an amazing day, leaving Kenmare and rambling around the stunning coast of the Ring of Kerry, we landed at the Killarney Park Hotel. Upon check-in we were a little surprised to see the place fully decorated in the Stars and Stripes. Once we hit our first pub, our bartender informed us of the night’s festivities - a full-blown Independence Day Parade. This was a little shocking to me. Why would another country be celebrating America’s independence? Is it because we both fought for our freedom from the U.K. (albeit a century-plus apart)?
Nope, it is actually because… they like us! Particularly, they like us to come visit. American tourism in Ireland is huge business. Ten times more citizens of the U.S. identify as having Irish heritage, than there are actual Irish residents. Their “Tidy Towns” competition (Killarney was a winner) is directed for the purpose of attracting visitors to their charming cities and villages all over the country.
So, the transformation of downtown Killarney into Main Street U.S.A. was quite a spectacle. The carnival atmosphere was complete with marching bands, Disney characters, a wild west troupe and a stilted Uncle Sam.
Oh yeah, and the FOOD! Don’t let anyone tell that Irish food is bland, boring and over-cooked. Not true. They have some of the best seafood anywhere in the world. The Irish Breakfast? We’ll talk about that soon. That night we bounced around to several pubs, dining on oysters, mussels, cured salmon, fish and chips, boxty, an assortment of savory pies and maybe a few pints. This was also the first time (but not the last) that I got to indulge in Murphy’s Ice Cream. The exquisite dairy that comes from the grass-fed Kerry cows is a mystery to me. Rumor has it that the leftover mash from the Jameson distillery in Middleton makes into the feed bag. Happiest cows in the world!
This might sound like a lot of culinary indulgence for one night, but no, that was every night, in every town, in Ireland. Yes, you do have to pace yourself because the sun doesn’t go down in the summer till around 11pm. If you don’t take your time, you’ll miss the fireworks!
Happy Independence Day, to all! See you later this week for “Free Lobster Bisque Day.”
"Bless us with good food, the gift of gab and hearty laughter. May the love and joy we share, be with us ever after!" - Irish Kitchen Prayer
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June 24 2021
The Truth About Kobe Beef
You might have heard about Kobe beef, the pampered beer-fed cows being massaged daily so that this indulgence yields the most blissful cut of beef. The beef itself is amazing but the story isn’t true. Now I’m want to give you the real facts...
But, I have been asked by the Branchburg Rotary to give out samples of our amazing Lobster Bisque to everyone attending The Downtown Somerville Cruise Night Friday 6/25. The soup is not for sale tomorrow - but please come see us at 87 West Main St. from 6-8pm. I’d love to say “hi” and talk to all of you about cool foodie stuff.
The efforts of our Branchburg Rotary have provided meals for over 12,000 needy families in just the last few months. I am so proud to have partnered with the philanthropic Horner, Shockley, Stabile, Bateman, Brown, DiPane and many other Rotarian families to combat local food insecurities. They really talk the talk and walk the walk.
I’ve got to get cooking some bisque, but I promise you... I’ll get back to the Kobe beef article next week. Stay tuned for some whimsical musings.
“The best way to find yourself is service to others." - The International Rotary
The Truth About Kobe Beef
You might have heard about Kobe beef, the pampered beer-fed cows being massaged daily so that this indulgence yields the most blissful cut of beef. The beef itself is amazing but the story isn’t true. Now I’m want to give you the real facts...
But, I have been asked by the Branchburg Rotary to give out samples of our amazing Lobster Bisque to everyone attending The Downtown Somerville Cruise Night Friday 6/25. The soup is not for sale tomorrow - but please come see us at 87 West Main St. from 6-8pm. I’d love to say “hi” and talk to all of you about cool foodie stuff.
The efforts of our Branchburg Rotary have provided meals for over 12,000 needy families in just the last few months. I am so proud to have partnered with the philanthropic Horner, Shockley, Stabile, Bateman, Brown, DiPane and many other Rotarian families to combat local food insecurities. They really talk the talk and walk the walk.
I’ve got to get cooking some bisque, but I promise you... I’ll get back to the Kobe beef article next week. Stay tuned for some whimsical musings.
“The best way to find yourself is service to others." - The International Rotary
June 14 2021
My Father, My Superhero
As we approach Father’s Day 2021, many of us will take time to reflect on the impact our fathers have made on our lives. Some (like me) will also take time to give thanks for the joy of being a father. The restaurant industry is notoriously difficult on family life, but I am one of the lucky ones. Getting to work with my wife for 40 years and raising 4 amazing children while also devoted to my craft has been the ultimate pleasure of my life. Our children at various times of my career have also worked side-by-side with me, though thick and thin. Now it is remarkable to see our 5 (soon to be 6) grandchildren being raised with the same family values as I was, just with a little added attention to the cookery.
My Father’s nickname was Superman. This tag was originally bestowed on him because my mother’s maiden name was actually Lois Lane. This was always a charming tale, but truth be told, my Dad really was Superman to our family. Though he passed away nine years ago, he still leaves an unforgettable mark on our family.
My Dad was an inspiration for my passion for food and charity, as well. As a child, he and I would eat breakfast together - just the two of us early-risers, every morning. On the weekends he would love to prepare dinner for the family, and we all looked forward to it - especially my mother. He and I would cook together over a fire (including lobsters) on our family camping trips. He was so zealous about food that when he returned from business trips, he could recount every meal he ate while away.
As my career in the food industry began to flourish, he was always my biggest fan. I don’t remember anything I ever cooked for him that he didn’t enjoy and would talk about long after. He would love to hang around the restaurant kitchen where he called himself the “official taster." Of course, if my mother wasn’t around, he would also sneak a few of Denise’s cookies!
My passion for charity also comes from my Dad. He was always there for everyone. There was nothing so big that he wouldn’t generously do for anyone who needed help. I know he would be proud of how we have leaned-in during this pandemic to feed those in need.
So, for everyone celebrating Father’s Day this Sunday - cheers to you!
“We never get over our Fathers… and we’re not required to.” - Irish Proverb
My Father, My Superhero
As we approach Father’s Day 2021, many of us will take time to reflect on the impact our fathers have made on our lives. Some (like me) will also take time to give thanks for the joy of being a father. The restaurant industry is notoriously difficult on family life, but I am one of the lucky ones. Getting to work with my wife for 40 years and raising 4 amazing children while also devoted to my craft has been the ultimate pleasure of my life. Our children at various times of my career have also worked side-by-side with me, though thick and thin. Now it is remarkable to see our 5 (soon to be 6) grandchildren being raised with the same family values as I was, just with a little added attention to the cookery.
My Father’s nickname was Superman. This tag was originally bestowed on him because my mother’s maiden name was actually Lois Lane. This was always a charming tale, but truth be told, my Dad really was Superman to our family. Though he passed away nine years ago, he still leaves an unforgettable mark on our family.
My Dad was an inspiration for my passion for food and charity, as well. As a child, he and I would eat breakfast together - just the two of us early-risers, every morning. On the weekends he would love to prepare dinner for the family, and we all looked forward to it - especially my mother. He and I would cook together over a fire (including lobsters) on our family camping trips. He was so zealous about food that when he returned from business trips, he could recount every meal he ate while away.
As my career in the food industry began to flourish, he was always my biggest fan. I don’t remember anything I ever cooked for him that he didn’t enjoy and would talk about long after. He would love to hang around the restaurant kitchen where he called himself the “official taster." Of course, if my mother wasn’t around, he would also sneak a few of Denise’s cookies!
My passion for charity also comes from my Dad. He was always there for everyone. There was nothing so big that he wouldn’t generously do for anyone who needed help. I know he would be proud of how we have leaned-in during this pandemic to feed those in need.
So, for everyone celebrating Father’s Day this Sunday - cheers to you!
“We never get over our Fathers… and we’re not required to.” - Irish Proverb
June 7 2021
The Maine Lobster; A True Love Story
I know you might be thinking of the inaccurate urban myth created by the TV show “Friends” about lobster love. Quite frankly, their romantic life is rather peculiar. No, this story is about a chef’s passion for these luscious crusty bugs. As a child vacationing with my parents in Maine, once I smelled the briny ocean as we neared the lobster shacks, my mouth started to water. I have fond memories of sitting on a dock, at a picnic table, cracking steamed lobsters, gift-wrapped in wet newspaper. More recently, numerous trips with my similarly passionate wife to the DownEast lobster pounds of Acadia (Thurston’s, Abel’s, Lundt’s) have crystallized my love of this culinary gem.
The gastronomic history of the lobster is quite a rags-to-riches story. It was once drearily thought of as peasant food (and prison food) in early America. Though plentiful, they were disdained as a stinky pest. They began to gain fame as they were able to grow a little larger (and meatier) due to the over-fishing of their main predator, the Atlantic cod. The 20th century aristocrats then began to revere the lobster as fancy food. I believe that this was mostly due to the fact that some smart folks (chefs) learned that the lobster needed to be cooked live in order to preserve the quality of their delicious meat. This live public execution was also the beginning of the tale of the wounded “screaming” lobster. Just another myth.
Now, you will see a lot of lobster dishes on this site, Bisque, Rolls, Lob Mac, maybe even Lobster Mashed Potatoes. However, as much as I enjoy making these dishes for you, nothing beats a whole lobster dinner on a summer evening, in Maine. Oh yeah, it’s a half-day drive. Then there is a lot of work to dismantle the beast. This might include some pain (even blood?), but the labor to extract the salty-sweet meat is really worth it. This messy chore is quite a commitment as we dive into the innards like the tomalley, the roe and sucking the precious meat from their little legs. We work our way through the luscious knuckle and claw meat in anticipation of the grand prize… the heavenly tail (I know that most foodies head right for the tail, but not me).
And, of course, all the butter!
As I write this, I am preparing to head to Portland, Maine to pick up a catch of lobsters that I am going to make an amazing bisque for you all. So, when I load them up, and rush back to NJ, they’ll all have rubber bands around their claws. This is for their protection, not ours. These angry crustaceans love to fight! My question for you is, cook with bands on or off? Discuss.
See you in a minute.
“Lobsters fall in love and mate for life." - Phoebe Buffay
The Maine Lobster; A True Love Story
I know you might be thinking of the inaccurate urban myth created by the TV show “Friends” about lobster love. Quite frankly, their romantic life is rather peculiar. No, this story is about a chef’s passion for these luscious crusty bugs. As a child vacationing with my parents in Maine, once I smelled the briny ocean as we neared the lobster shacks, my mouth started to water. I have fond memories of sitting on a dock, at a picnic table, cracking steamed lobsters, gift-wrapped in wet newspaper. More recently, numerous trips with my similarly passionate wife to the DownEast lobster pounds of Acadia (Thurston’s, Abel’s, Lundt’s) have crystallized my love of this culinary gem.
The gastronomic history of the lobster is quite a rags-to-riches story. It was once drearily thought of as peasant food (and prison food) in early America. Though plentiful, they were disdained as a stinky pest. They began to gain fame as they were able to grow a little larger (and meatier) due to the over-fishing of their main predator, the Atlantic cod. The 20th century aristocrats then began to revere the lobster as fancy food. I believe that this was mostly due to the fact that some smart folks (chefs) learned that the lobster needed to be cooked live in order to preserve the quality of their delicious meat. This live public execution was also the beginning of the tale of the wounded “screaming” lobster. Just another myth.
Now, you will see a lot of lobster dishes on this site, Bisque, Rolls, Lob Mac, maybe even Lobster Mashed Potatoes. However, as much as I enjoy making these dishes for you, nothing beats a whole lobster dinner on a summer evening, in Maine. Oh yeah, it’s a half-day drive. Then there is a lot of work to dismantle the beast. This might include some pain (even blood?), but the labor to extract the salty-sweet meat is really worth it. This messy chore is quite a commitment as we dive into the innards like the tomalley, the roe and sucking the precious meat from their little legs. We work our way through the luscious knuckle and claw meat in anticipation of the grand prize… the heavenly tail (I know that most foodies head right for the tail, but not me).
And, of course, all the butter!
As I write this, I am preparing to head to Portland, Maine to pick up a catch of lobsters that I am going to make an amazing bisque for you all. So, when I load them up, and rush back to NJ, they’ll all have rubber bands around their claws. This is for their protection, not ours. These angry crustaceans love to fight! My question for you is, cook with bands on or off? Discuss.
See you in a minute.
“Lobsters fall in love and mate for life." - Phoebe Buffay
p: 732.232.3984
e: jim@papajimscomfortkitchen.com
e: jim@papajimscomfortkitchen.com